From Beach-Hopping to Thrill-Seeking: Uncover The Secrets of the US Virgin Islands!
Consisting of some 50 plus islands and cays scattered across the Caribbean Sea, the US Virgin Islands (USVI) are the USA’s very own tropical jewels, known first and foremost for their balmy weather and spectacular beaches. Of the many islands of the USVI, St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix are the three largest — serving as home to most of the population of the USVI as well as the main tourist centers. Despite being a part of the United States, the USVI retains its own cultural identity, one that mirrors that of its colorful Caribbean neighbors. From swaying palms trees and sparkling blue waters to glamorous shopping and succulent seafood, it’s no wonder that the USVI is a prime holiday destination for many! Want to learn the many secrets of the USVI? Keep reading!
Getting to the US Virgin Islands
There are two major airports serving the USVI, Cyril E. King Airport (STT) on St Thomas Island and Henry E. Rohlsen Airport (STX) on St. Croix Island. Of these, STT on St Thomas is the larger of the two airports and serves as the major entry hub for international flights. Albeit a little small, STT is still equipped with every amenity you might expect to find at any US airport — everything except for great air conditioning that is! Traveling between the US mainland and USVI is akin to taking a domestic flight anywhere in the US meaning that there are no customs and border control procedures required for visitors from the USA. Sadly, travelers from foreign nations are still required to clear customs on arrival to the islands. We should mention that TSA precheck and Global Entry are both available at STT however —because everyone is on island time— if you’re planning to check bags then you must arrive at the airport 3 hours before your departure time as this process is slow and cumbersome and cutting it too close may mean missing your flight altogether.
You may have seen online that Passports are not required for US citizens traveling to the USVI and while this is true there is a caveat. You may enter USVI with just your US driver’s license but a license by itself is not enough to depart the USVI. To return to mainland USA, USVI immigration policy requires all travelers to have either a passport or two additional forms of ID such as a US driver’s license and US birth certificate. To avoid the hassle of traveling with so much documentation, we suggest simply bringing your passport along with you, especially if you plan to return home!
When to visit the USVI
With consistently warm temperatures throughout the year, the question here should not be when to visit but rather when not to visit the islands. What are we talking about? Well, as the weather in the USVI is idyllic for much of the year, it’s hard to go wrong when choosing a time to visit however we do recommend avoiding the months of July-October as this is the Caribbean’s infamous hurricane season. That being said, we somehow managed to find ourselves in St Thomas in September, exactly at the peak of hurricane season! Luckily for us, there were no hurricanes on the horizon during our time on the islands and, not only did we have gloriously sunny days, we also did not have to contend with other travelers for beach space, restaurant reservations or parking! Now, traveling to any part of the Caribbean during hurricane season is quite a risk and we’re not saying that anyone should do so lightly or without proper planning, but what we are saying is that we may forever have to visit the USVI during these months — spoiled as we are by the lack of crowds and freedom to go wherever we want and do whatever we please!
Traveling to USVI in peak season (December to April) means dealing with lots of crowds both from regular travelers and the daily cruise ships. Consider traveling in the shoulder seasons or low season. Note that if you travel in the low season (hurricane season) some restaurants and businesses will be closed but this should not be a problem as there are tons of eateries open even during these times!
Getting around the USVI
As the islands are generally small, travelers can traverse them via rental car or by local taxis. Ride Shares such as Uber/Lfyt are not currently available in the USVI. Despite their size, the islands are incredibly hilly therefore biking is not a great option for traveling any meaningful distance, not unless you have thighs of steel and have placed at least 4th in a Tour de France challenge!
Taking a Taxi in the USVI
Being the most common mode of transportation in the USVI, taxis are available practically everywhere on the island and are easiest to hail at airports, cruise terminals and any major tourist attractions. As taxis are not just relegated to the typical 4-door sedans, any vehicle could serve as a taxi in the USVI whether it be a truck, a van or an SUV. This means that taxis are a little harder to identify and that before boarding any vehicle, you should check for a USVI taxi license plate and a placard in the window. An interesting factoid about USVI taxis is that they are often shared meaning that you may find yourself shoulder to shoulder with strangers who just happen to be traveling in the same direction as you. Finally, taxis in the USVI only accept cash for payment presently so come prepared with small bills and always make sure to confirm your rate and destination before boarding.
You’ll notice small, open-air vehicles roaming the islands in the USVI. These are known as Safari taxis and although they look fun, they are not recommended for tourists. These taxis primarily serve locals, have uncertain schedules and limited routes, making them a less-than-ideal way to travel for visitors to the islands. Hop aboard one only if you have no pressing appointments and plenty of time to enjoy the ride!
Driving in the USVI
In our opinion, the best way to get around the USVI is by rental car particularly as it offers the most flexibility when it comes to beach-hopping and sightseeing. The small size of the islands paired with fairly good roads makes driving around the islands relatively easy as well, however there are some key things to know before you hightail it out of the rental car agency parking lot! First, despite technically being a part of the USA, driving in USVI is done on the left-hand side of the road. Secondly, most of the roads are in good shape, however, don’t be surprised if you periodically find yourself on a gravel or dirt road here or there. Third, roads in the USVI are built on very hilly terrain meaning that they are often windy, steep and small so always drive with extra caution and keep an eye on on-coming traffic. Finally, parking can be a bit of nightmare but only in very popular areas like downtown Charlotte Amalie on St. Thomas and Cruz Bay on St. John Island. We suggest looking ahead on Google Maps to locate a parking lot before setting out on your drive.
Be mindful when planning your drives as addresses in the USVI tend to be inaccurate or difficult to find. We found Waze to be generally unreliable, but Apple Maps worked well for us on both St. Thomas and St. John Islands.
Taking the Inter- Island Ferry
Traveling between the different US Virgin Islands is most commonly done by inter-island ferries that serve St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix islands. While St. Thomas and St. John are quite close to each other, St. Croix is a lengthy 2-2.5-hr boat ride away from either of these islands and requires some planning to ensure that ferry tickets can be secured. The main ferry service operating between St. Thomas to St. Croix is the QE IV Ferry and you can check schedules or buy tickets online HERE.
Because of their close proximity to each other, ferry services between St. John Island and St. Thomas Island are more frequent and accessible. There are two ferry terminals on St. Thomas Island: one located in Charlotte Amalie and the other in Red Hook. The travel time from Charlotte Amalie to Cruz Bay on St. John is about 45 minutes while the trip from Red Hook to Cruz Bay is a mere 20 minutes. There are two types of ferries that travel between the islands: passenger ferries and car ferries. As we wanted to explore St. John at our own pace during the offseason, we decided to make use of the car ferry. Of the three car ferries, we arbitrarily chose the Red Barge and purchased tickets online. Although we could’ve purchased our tickets at the ferry terminal, we wanted to select the most current departure and return times. Transport to St. John via the Red Barge was smooth and seamless from the Red Hook Terminal with the only challenge being how to properly back onto the ferry and not into the Atlantic! Once all vehicles were boarded on the ferry, we were free to leave our cars and enjoy the scenery from the boat which was a fun and spectacular way to spend the 20-minute crossing!
Make sure to drop a pin once you drive off the ferry in Cruz Bay, especially if you’re planning to return by the same car ferry later in the day. The car ferry and passenger ferry take off from different terminals on St. John and these are not next to each other! If you don’t save your location, you may end up missing your boat altogether!
Where to stay in the USVI
Finding a place to stay is uncomplicated in the US Virgin Islands as each of the major islands has only one main city where most of the accommodation is located. Anyone visiting St. John will likely find themselves in the port city of Cruz Bay while travelers to St. Croix typically stay in Christiansted. On St. Thomas Island, most hotels and Airbnbs are located in Charlotte Amalie which is not only the main city of the island but also the capital city of the USVI.
Charlotte Amalie
Spread across the green hills of St. Thomas and abutting the jewel-blue waters of the Atlantic, Charlotte Amalie is a picturesque metropolis that occupies the entirety of the island. As the second most populated city in USVI, Charlotte Amalie is a hub of activity offering visitors access to historical monuments, local markets, offshore excursions, high end shopping, and fine dining. Because of its expanse, there are many enclaves to choose from when picking a spot to stay in the city. Most of the attractions of St. Thomas and many of the hotels on the island are located in the downtown area of Charlotte Amalie and are within a short 5–10-minute drive of the airport.
Because we wanted a little more seclusion, we chose to stay in Red Hook, an enclave located about 20 minutes away from downtown Charlotte Amalie on the east side of St. Thomas. Unlike the more crowded, bustling downtown area, Red Hook had a laidback, slow-paced beach vibe which was just what we were looking for. As Red Hook is more of a local’s area, hotels were sparse, however there were lots of available condos to choose from on Airbnb that were well-situated and affordable. In fact, our condo in Red Hook was waterfront with views of St John and the British Virgin Islands and was a 5-minute drive away from one of the nicest restaurant rows on the island. With such ease of access to shops, restaurants and ferries and with so many nearby beaches to choose from, we truly believe that this is one of the best places to stay on St. Thomas Island!
Scheduled and unscheduled power outages are common in the USVI which can be a minor issue if renting an Airbnb without a generator. Make sure to inquire about other light sources and blackout procedures from your host before your arrival.
Currency of the USVI
As they are a US territory, the US dollar is the main currency of the US Virgin Islands. Additionally, all credit cards are accepted although some establishments still do not accept Amex in the USVI. Surprisingly, many smaller restaurants throughout the islands accept cash only and ATM fees are exorbitant so we recommend bringing however much cash you may need for your stay with you.
Food and Water in the USVI
To our delight, the food in the US Virgin Islands was an interesting blend of Caribbean and American cuisines featuring mountains of fresh-caught, masterfully prepared seafood. Everything from jerk chicken to hamburgers, po’ boys and beignets are available on the islands. In fact, there is even such a thing as a Pizza Boat that anchors somewhere between St. John and St. Thomas and delivers mouthwatering pies to passing sailors! Oh, and filtered tap water is safe to consume on the isles! Anyway, as we spent most of our time in St. Thomas, here are our must-try recommendations for your next visit to the island.
Looking for more food inspo? Check us out HERE!
Tarpon’s Table
Located in Red Hook, Tarpon’s Table was one of our favorite food stops in St. Thomas. Serving up fresh seafood right off the marina, this quaint, open-air restaurant offers lovely water views and a hard-to-beat menu. We particularly enjoyed the tempura mahi mahi bites which we found to be crisp and light as well as the grilled wahoo and the shrimp po’boys. Our absolute favorite thing at Tarpon’s though was the meticulously prepared swordfish. Never had we sampled a more succulent and well-seasoned piece of swordfish before our visit to Tarpon’s!
Tarpon’s has the best price on fresh local lobster so don’t miss your chance to try it the next time you stop by!
3 Palms Restaurant
The only fine dining restaurant we visited during our time on St. Thomas, 3 Palms Restaurant stood out for its ambiance, idyllic location in Red Hook and most importantly, it’s ever-changing seasonal menu. Our favorite bite at 3 Palms Restaurant was the perfectly light and crisp, melt-in-your-mouth fried Calamari! Paired with a trio of artfully created sauces, this usually simple dish was a savory masterpiece that we still think about every so often. While the menu is likely to be different during your visit, we also found both the risotto and shrimp pasta to be divine and recommend ordering them if you get the chance!
Hook’d USVI
Also located in Red Hook, Hook’d USVI is a great option whether you’re looking for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. The semi-open-air restaurant is also located waterfront nearby to the Marina and serves up simple yet flavor-packed fare ranging from fish tacos and grilled fish to burgers and steak sandwiches! We particularly enjoyed the by-the-pound peel-and-eat shrimp in warm garlic butter which was by far the best shrimp we had on the island!
Hook’d USVI will also prepare and serve any seafood you caught while fishing, at a reasonable cost of course, if you call ahead and notify them before your arrival.
Sunset Grille at Secret Harbor Beach
Set amidst the white sands of Secret Harbor Beach, the Sunset Grille is aptly named for the stunning sunsets that patrons enjoy from its open-air dining room. Candlelit tables bedecked in white linen, sparkling glasses and silverware and soft music floating on gentle ocean air paired with the magnificent colors of the sunset create an unbearably romantic ambiance. Although we found it hard to focus on the food half as much as the sunset, it was nevertheless remarkable. The delicately prepared adobo brick chicken with chimichurri emulsion in particular was one of the most savored bites of our trip!
Smoke Up Fusion BBQ
Located in West Charlotte Amalie at the Crown Bay Marina, Smoke Up Fusion BBQ is a food truck serving up a mix of barbecue, seafood and island fare in a laid-back setting with spectacular views. True to its name Fusion BBQ has on offer dishes that you would never expect from a BBQ food truck like the Chinese BBQ Ribs and the Ginger Teriyaki Beef. If there’s one thing you absolutely should not miss at this food truck though, it’s the Jerk Chicken! Savory, tender and with the perfect amount of heat, one order of this island-favorite is enough to satisfy two!
Gladys' Cafe
Hidden away in the cobbled alleyways of downtown Charlotte Amalie, Gladys’ Café is famed for its Caribbean fare which typically is served in huge portions at fair prices. Although a little touristy, we found the food to be delicious and a great rendition of the usual Caribbean fare. From the softer-than-warm-butter oxtails to the peppery goat curry, we couldn’t help but polish our plates at Gladys’ Café!
French Quarter Bistro
Our absolute favorite restaurant in all of St. Thomas, the French Quarter Bistro is a cajun-american joint serving up all the very best of Louisiana Cuisine with a touch of local seafood to booth! From the conch fritters and blackened po’ boys to the pillowy beignets, every dish we tried at the French Quarter Bistro was a flavor-packed odyssey! While we obviously loved every bite here, we must call your attention to the conch fritters as they were the best versions of this that we’ve had anywhere in the Caribbean to date! If there’s one restaurant that we wanted to return to daily in St. Thomas it was the French Quarter Bistro! Unfortunately for us, they were going on a temporary hiatus on the very next day after our visit and our dreams didn’t come to pass but we hope you add this little gem to your list of must-try restaurants and frequent them as often as you can while in St. Thomas!
Top Things To Do On St. Thomas Island
Take A Scenic Drive!
Being wonderfully hilly, just taking a drive around St. Thomas Island is a fantastic way to catch some magnificent vistas. The most popular viewpoints that are absolutely worth a stop are the Charlotte Amalie viewpoint providing lovely views of the city and Drake’s seat with its panoramic views of Magens Bay. Both of these viewpoints are within a 10–15-minute drive of downtown Charlotte Amalie, have no associated fees for visitors and have dedicated parking.
Go Beach-Hopping!
Of course, this is the number one must-do activity on St. Thomas Island. Although the beaches are relatively small overall, they each possess unique features that make exploration a rewarding prospect. Here are some of the beaches on St. Thomas that are absolutely worth a visit.
Magens Bay
The most popular — and perhaps most postcard worthy— beach on St. Thomas Island is Magens Bay, a cove-like beach featuring splendid turquoise water ringed by lush green hills. The calm waters and gently swaying palms make for a truly peaceful tropical paradise at Magens — well in the off season anyway! Because of its fame and beauty, Magens Bay beach can be overrun with crowds in the high season, especially as cruise ship arrivals tend to increase during that time. Magens Bay beach is in a protected park and there is a fee to enter which can be paid by cash or with credit card at the entrance to the park. There is ample parking and amenities such as picnic tables, showers, and restrooms at Magens Bay. There is also a beachside restaurant and bar and places to rent paddle boards, snorkels and other water gear. The best time to visit Magens is early in the morning when the water is bluest or after 4pm to catch the stunning sunsets!
Although we did spot a small sea turtle bobbing on the water, Magens Bay is not a great snorkeling beach because the water, though beautiful and clean, is quite turbid.
Sapphire Beach
Located near Red Hook, Sapphire Beach is aptly named for its deep blue waters and is known for being an excellent snorkeling beach. The reef at Sapphire beach is quite close to shore making it a more accessible snorkeling destination for beginners. Getting to Sapphire Beach is a little confusing as there is no address associated with the beach. Instead, we recommend setting your GPS to the Sapphire Beach Bar where you’ll find a free parking lot. The beach is located directly behind the beach bar and there is a small, paved path to the right of the bar leading directly onto the sand. There are no amenities on this beach and no fees to visit.
Lindquist Beach
Another popular beach in the Red Hook area, Lindquist Beach is known for its gentle, aquamarine waters and great snorkeling. There is a fee to enter the beach and good parking at the entrance. As vehicles are not allowed to pass the guard house, all beachgoers must park at the entrance and make the 5-minute walk down to the beach. There are picnic tables, showers and restrooms at Lindquist Beach, however there are no restaurants or water gear rental shops available there. Although we found the water at Lindquist Beach to be a little murky and the snorkeling along the seagrass to be underwhelming—there was only scant wildlife to be seen— we still must give this beach five stars as a snorkeling spot because of the giant sea turtles we encountered here and nowhere else in the USVI!
Lindquist Beach closes at 5pm daily so although the sunsets are said to be spectacular there, we suggest planning your sunset viewing elsewhere on the island as you will be asked to vacate the beach before that time.
Secret Harbor Beach
A local’s favorite in Red Hook, Secret Harbor Beach, is prized for both its accessible snorkeling and gorgeous sunsets. The small beach abuts the Secret Harbor Beach Resort and offers calm waters and underwater rock and coral formations teeming with fish just a few feet offshore. While there are no amenities at this beach, visitors can take advantage of restrooms at the Sunset Grille which is located right on the beach. Parking is limited in the area as most of the spots are reserved for the hotel and the restaurant, however there is a dedicated beach parking lot a short distance away from the resort which can be found by asking for directions from the security staff stationed in the parking lot. To fully enjoy Secret Harbor Beach, we suggest planning your visit for the mid to late afternoon to take advantage of the snorkeling then capping your day off with dinner at the Sunset Grille where you can sit back, relax and enjoy a great meal and an incredible sunset.
Visit The Iconic Historical Sites!
When you’re ready for a break from the beaches of St. Thomas, there are several fun historical and cultural sites that are absolutely worth a visit. The main must-see historical sites include the famous Fort Christian with its eye catching deep-red walls and the 99 Steps which are, in fact, made up of 103 steps built with bricks brought to St. Thomas from Denmark in the 1700s!
Shop The Local Markets!
While there are plenty of stores and shops across St. Thomas — all selling mostly the same merchandise — there are some local markets carrying unique wares that are absolutely worth a visit. We suggest paying a visit to Bordeaux Farmers’ Market and the historic Market Square (aka Rothschild Francis Square) where you’ll be able to peruse specialty local fruits and vegetables as well as sample artisanal creations like pomegranate and ghost pepper hot sauce! For all your souvenir needs, don’t miss Vendors Plaza, the collection of blue tents located next to Fort Christian where virtually any souvenir can be found for half the price of any shop in St. Thomas!
Top Things To Do On St. John Island
Although there is plenty shopping and dining to be done on St. John Island, the biggest draw to the island is actually the US Virgin Island National Park, an enormous, protected area that covers most of the island and that consists of lovely, forested hiking trails and perhaps the most pristine beaches in the USVI. Unlike other US National Parks, there is no fee to enter this park, however some of the beaches within the park do have entrance fees. Cell service is limited to non-existent in the park, however there is only one very well-kept road leading from Cruz Bay through the USVI NP making it virtually impossible to get lost as you drive through the park. Major attractions are marked with large wooden signs and often have associated parking lots so fear not as it’s unlikely that you’ll miss anything of great consequence despite a lack of data and navigation in the park! Seeing as we survived the park with a compact car, no map and only the use of Apple Maps without internet, we have confidence that you’ll be able to navigate the park just as easily too! Anyway, here are some attractions in the USVI National Park that you simply shouldn’t miss!
Trunk Bay
Perhaps the most photographed and most famous beach in the USVI, Trunk Bay is located 20 minutes away from Cruz Bay in the USVI National Park. Known for its crystal-clear turquoise waters and white sands, Trunk Bay has a unique feature on offer that no other beach in the USVI possesses: an underwater snorkeling trail! The trail, known as the Coral Reef Underwater Park trail, is located close to shore and offers snorkelers a more than 600 feet route marked by underwater plaques to explore. Because of its popularity, visiting Trunk Bay can be a bit of a challenge in the high season particularly as there is only one small parking lot serving the beach however — as one of the best snorkeling beaches we visited in the USVI— it is a must see! There is an entrance fee at Trunk Bay, however this covers the cost of using the available amenities which include showers, a small restaurant, picnic facilities and bathrooms.
Peace Hill
Located 10 minutes away from Trunk Bay in the direction of Cruz Bay, Peace Hill is both a historical site and a scenic overlooking that is a must-do on St. John Island. Marked by a small sign and a small, slightly overgrown parking lot, we almost missed the trail up Peace Hill ourselves as we drove by and indeed had to turn back to get to it. Once in the parking lot, the trail was hard to miss, and we did not require a trail map to find it or to make the hike which was short, steep and rocky. Although we recommend having good shoes to handle the uneven terrain, one of us managed to make the climb in only our slippers! Just 10 minutes after starting our climb, we arrived at the top of the hill and the main payoff: the ruins of an 18th century windmill. We were initially a little disappointed as we expected views of the water around us and saw nothing but overgrown weeds however as we entered the windmill and peered out its windows, we were stunned to behold sweeping views of the bays around us sparkling like fine jewels in the sun!
Hawsnest Beach
Our personal favorite in the US Virgin Islands National Park, Hawksnest Beach, is without a doubt one of the best snorkeling beaches in the world. Clear, calm aquamarine waters filled with coral reefs and fish extending almost onto the sands of the beach provide extensive areas for snorkelers to roam and explore. There are no fees to enter the beach and no amenities at Hawksnest although there is a sizeable gazebo with picnic tables located near the parking lot. Mesmerized first by the colorful coral and fish then by the serene sea turtles, we found ourselves not wanting to leave the beach, much-less the water, when it came time to catch our ferry back to St. Thomas!
