Marrakech |  Casablanca  |  Tangier  | Fes | Rabat | Todra Gorge | Sahara

Departing Morocco was interesting as both our parties’ experiences were very different. Traveling back to Miami via Lisbon, we had to clear security in order to enter the lobby of the Casablanca airport and get to the ticketing desk. After grabbing our boarding passes, we made our way through another security checkpoint and finally to terminal 2 where we availed ourselves of the lounge and the handful of available shops and cafes until take off. We were required to clear security once more in Lisbon before we finally boarded to Miami.

We had some success using credit cards at a handful of the more international restaurants throughout Morocco but were gently told each time by the owners that they often pay heavy fees to be a able to accept credit cards so we used cash whenever we could. Credit cards are also not acceptable by taxis or within the various Medinas so having cash on hand is necessary especially if you want to seize the opportunity when you spot a great deal!

Morocco has all the same modes of transportation as any other nation PLUS some unique options like Camels and donkeys for those who really aren’t in a rush to get to their destinations. Regardless of how you choose to travel through the country though there are some crucial things to know before hopping aboard a train, taxi or rickshaw (yes, they have those!) Keep reading to find out everything you need to know to successfully get around Morocco.

First, we should point out that you do not have to drive in Morocco if you don’t want to. There are plenty of taxis and private drivers for hire to get you anywhere you desire for a fairly reasonable price but there are many pros and cons to going this route (more to come on this later). However, when it comes to truly seeing a place and immersing yourself in its beauty, we think a road trip is the best way to go and, in fact, one of the very best parts of our Morocco vacation was the road trip! Being able to travel at our own pace, to turn on the AC or heat when we wanted it, to choose our own music, to make impromptu photo stops when we pleased and to have the freedom to make bathroom stops when we needed was priceless if you ask us!

Now, we’re still not sure how police officers at a checkpoint 3 miles ahead of us knew this as no one rode up behind us to pull us over in the traditional manner but we were waved aside as we approached the checkpoint, and the officer used a translation app to let us know what the violation was. Our fine for the infraction was 70 USD which we paid on the spot. We’d be lying if we said everyone was perfectly at ease during the traffic stop and while three out of the four of us were trying to be as non-threatening as possible, one foolhardy member of our party decided that this was the right moment to politely schmooze and sass the officer. We can’t say that this was the right approach given that neither of these two people could understand each other with the language barrier but the officer was somehow amused enough with the antics that he returned more than 50% of the fine to us! We’re not sure what the takeaway here is except that maybe you don’t need to be terrified of the police in Morocco because they’re way more laid back than people would have you believe and that being polite and respectful really can get you far no matter where you are in the world!

If you get pulled over in Morocco for a traffic violation and are asked to pay a fine, make sure to ask for a copy of the violation that way you have proof of the infraction and payment of the fine.

Our absolute favorite Tagine experience in Morocco was in Tinghir, a city just outside the famous Todra Gorge in Morocco. En route from the Gorge to the Sahara, we randomly chose to stop at a little family-owned restaurant known as Family el Mabrouk. Pulling up to the the address on Waze, we found ourselves at what appeared to be a walled-in family compound with two homes situated around a shared courtyard and with views of a valley filled with date palms below us. We were greeted by a gentleman and his son and told that they were serving grilled chicken and a vegetable tagine that day. Now, we freely admit that we were nervous what with us being mostly carnivorous. Offering us a vegetable tagine is like offering a cobra a slice of pizza. To our enduring surprise the vegetable tagine served to us that day by our host was the most delicious thing that we ate our entire trip!

No, it isn’t but that doesn’t mean you can’t find it if you really want it! Being a mostly Islamic country, Morocco forbids its citizens to drink alcohol however the rules are a little lax when it comes to tourist. In some cities such as Casablanca, Marrakech, and Fez, it’s difficult to acquire alcohol. Other cities like Tangier and towns bordering the desert are more free-spirited and having a drink is not frowned upon, unless its one of those umbrella-wielding frou-frou cocktails of-course!

Almost a thousand years old, Marrakech is a unique melting pot of Arabic, African, and European cultures. The Red City, as it is also often referred to, is architecturally stunning with rose-colored buildings set against groves of date palms and is home to one of the most enchanting Medinas in Morocco. Thanks to its beauty, proximity to the Atlas Mountains and its exoticness, Marrakech is a major dream destination of tourists worldwide. Although we tend to shy away from tourist-heavy areas in general, we could immediately understand the sway the city holds as we ourselves were besotted within minutes. With so much to see and do in Marrakech, finding the best experiences does require a bit of finesse. Not to worry though, we’re here to help. Keep reading to see where to stay and what to do in Marrakech.

As for where to stay in Marrakech, we suggest choosing a Riad in the Medina. In our opinion, this is the best way to immerse yourself immediately in the hustle and bustle of Marrakech. Staying within the Medina also provides easy access to the souks, mosques, gardens, and various other tourist sites. There are tons of Riads and hotels to choose from, any of which can be booked via Booking.com, Expedia, Airbnb or any other such travel websites.

In contrast to hotels, check-in times are typically earlier at riads, starting at around noon of the arrival day. Check-out is also later and flexible meaning that you will get a full 24-hr stay and don’t have to feel rushed to leave when you choose a riad.

If you’ve only got time to visit one place in Rabat, this collection of monuments should be it. Not only is the complex magnificent but you get to visit three points of interest all at once! Approaching the entrance, you’ll know you’re in the right place once you see the red and gold-clad guards on horseback at full attention. There is no fee to enter and you can just walk right on in. The Hassan Tower is the tall, sandstone-color minaret to the left of the entrance. The mosque beneath the minaret is incomplete however it can be viewed from above and is a great photo op.

Across from the Minaret is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V and the Al Hassan Mosque. The mosque is fully functional and is not open to foreigners although you can approach it and appreciate it somewhat from the outside. The Mausoleum, however, is free to enter and admire which we strongly suggest doing as the ornamentation within is breathtaking.

The Royal Palace in Rabat is open to the public and visitors are welcome to enter and roam the grounds at no cost. Despite not being able to enter the mosque within or the palace itself, the grounds are impressive and peaceful and the walk through the gardens is worth the effort. You cannot enter the palace without presenting your passport at the guarded entrance. Be prepared to have your passport examined and the details written down after which you’ll be free to roam at will.

Seeing as we couldn’t very well go to Morocco and not see the Sahara, we carved out three days in our itinerary during which time we planned to take a road-trip from Marrakech to the Sahara. Deciding what part of the Sahara we wanted to see was a little difficult. In our research we realized that there are two major sand dunes accessible to visitors of the Sahara: Erg Chebbi and Erg Chigaga. After countless hours of reading, comparing and popping Tylenol, we ultimately decided that it’s the Sahara! Who cares where we go? It’ll be amazing anyway! If it really matters to you, though, we can tell you that Erg Chebbi has taller dunes and is more popular with tourists than Erg Chigaga which is more reminiscent of scenes out of Lawrence of Arabia and is somewhat more remote.  Erg Chebbi can be reached from the small city of Merzouga while Erg Chigaga can be reached from the city of Zagora.

You can take a day trip from one Erg to the other via 4-wheel drive vehicle if you absolutely must visit both but plan for a long day as the drive one way is 6 hours long!

Consider leaving Marrakech as early as you can since you’ll want as much time as possible to explore the scenic stops along the way!

From Marrakech, we climbed the Atlas Mountain, stopping for pictures at Tizi n’ Tichka Pass: the highest mountain pass in Morocco. As Tizi n’ Tichka Pass is about 2.5 hours away from Marrakech and is rather remote, there are next to no gas stations along this segment of the route. We suggest filling up right outside of Marrakech. No gas stations also mean fewer bathroom stops but don’t worry, there are free and clean public bathrooms just 10 minutes prior to arrival at the mountain pass. Just keep your eyes peeled for the only cafe and shop along the roadside. Aside from a handful of vendors selling geodes mined from the mountains, this stop was truly undeveloped. The surrounding mountain views were spectacular though, making the stop well worth it. 

Continuing, we made our way to the next stop: Ait Benhaddou. An extraordinary city set on a hilltop and comprised of buildings displaying the remarkable earthen clay architecture that led to its fame and induction as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Having the appearance of an elaborate and enormous sandcastle, Ait Benhaddou is undoubtedly the captivating, real-life model after which so many Hollywood windswept, desert villages have been styled. 

Although we were about as up close and personal as we could be with Todra Gorge just by staying at the resort, we still wanted to explore further and decided to take a short hike through the gorge. In researching the area, we found that there were trails scattered throughout Todra Gorge but that they were all unmarked and were mostly paths used by local villagers in their daily commutes. We identified one vastly popular and easily identifiable trail known as the Todra Gorge Loop that was around 3 hours total and figured that it was just what we wanted.  

We were privileged to be able to explore two camps in particular: Madu Luxury Desert Camp and Sunrise Sahara Camp. We found both camps to be beautiful with rooms designed for maximum comfort in a rather harsh environment. Each camp offered rooms equipped with ac/heat, comfortable beds, attached bathrooms and toiletries. Both camps also provided dinner, breakfast, free wifi, nightly music around the fire and roundtrip transfers to and from Hassilabied by 4×4 vehicle. The most striking difference between the camps was their locations.  In terms of location: Madu Luxury Camp had the upper hand in our opinion. Not only was it situated in and surrounded by the Saharan sand dunes it had uninterrupted views of the desert and could be reached within 20 minutes by 4×4 from Hassilabied.

We ultimately chose the Sunrise Sahara Camp and for two particular reasons. First, the camp was comprised of intricate geodesic domes which we just couldn’t resist. Second, our stay included a 1-hr sunset camel ride across the desert and into camp which would otherwise cost us an additional 30 euros per person! On arrival to the camp, we were pleasantly surprised to be offered a free upgrade to the royal tent which turned out to be an enormous velvet-clad dome equipped with a huge bathroom, two seating areas, a smaller, connected dome with an ankle pool and our own outdoor firepit and bed for star gazing!

Wrapping up our tour, we headed deeper into the Sahara where we visited a nomad camp. Although small, the campsite housed several tents and was essentially a tiny village that belonged to just one family. There were three other such settlements and families scattered over the area, however everyone maintained respectful distances. These families live a long-forgotten lifestyle of complete self-reliance, following their animals across the desert, weaving their own clothes and foraging the desert for whatever else they may need. Due to their remoteness, the children do not attend traditional school but are instead raised in the traditions and survival techniques of the family. Occasionally, a member of the family may undertake the long trek into the nearest village to trade for necessities that are harder to come by. While you may think that eking out such a hard living may create an uncultured or, at the very least, unwelcoming population you would be incorrect. The family we were fortunate enough to visit kept their distance and went about their daily tasks but welcomed us to wander through their camp and even shared tea and snacks with us while demanding nothing in return. We did notice small nods to modernization in the way of one or two solar panels in the camp. To show our gratitude for their hospitality, we gifted cash to the matriarch of the family as we made our way out of the camp. 

The nomad campsites were the best place we found to hunt for fossils. One in every three rocks we picked up was a unique fossil!