Step into the Steppes: A Complete Guide To A Once In A Lifetime Adventure In Mongolia
How does one begin to describe the greatest adventure of a lifetime? To put into words how the devastating beauty of a place can at once bring you to your knees and send your spirit soaring? With its harsh history and gloriously untamed landscapes, Mongolia is one of only a few places in the world that can do just that. Located far from any ocean, Mongolia lies deep within Asia and is bordered by China to the south and Russia to the North. Being landlocked and a communist nation for most of its existence, the country remained sequestered from the world until the early 1990s when it adopted capitalism leading to a great economic and cultural revolution. As such, Mongolians knew little of the world and the world, in turn, knew even less of Mongolia. With the passage of time and the eventual influx of western media, however, Mongolia began connecting with the rest of the world, welcoming visitors with open arms. Admittedly, exploring Mongolia on your own can be a bit of a challenge given its general lack of infrastructure outside of the capital city of Ulaanbaatar, however with a proper guide and driver, the sky’s the limit in this remarkable land. Despite its ruggedness, Mongolia is nevertheless one of the safest destinations for tourists in the world and is considered a haven for solo travelers as well. But what exactly is there to do in Mongolia? Well, with lush grasslands, snowcapped mountains and even a desert all within a day’s drive of each other, we’d say there’s plenty to do in Mongolia. If visiting one of the most serene places in the world is on your bucket-list, then keep reading to see how to make that dream come true!
Getting to Mongolia
At this moment, there are no direct flights from the USA to Mongolia and most US carriers do not offer any routes to the country with the exception of United Airways which offers seasonal flights to Mongolia with layovers in Tokyo, Japan. That being said, Mongolia is just a short flight away from any country in East Asia including Hong Kong, Taiwan and South Korea. Because travel to Mongolia can take as much as 34 hours from the USA due to the various connecting flights, finding a way to break up such an almost unbearable travel time is highly recommended. To make our own journey palatable, we first traveled the 15 hours from Atlanta to South Korea where we spent a day pretending to recuperate — we just could not resist Incheon’s Chinatown! — before continuing on a 3-hr flight to Mongolia.
Jeju Air and Korean Air both fly to Mongolia from Incheon International Airport. Of the two, we recommend flying with Korean Air for a more seamless and straightforward experience.
All international flights arrive to Mongolia in the capital city of Ulaanbaatar at New Ulaanbaatar International Airport (UBN) also known as Chinggis Khaan International Airport. Being recently built, Chinggis Khaan International is bright and modern with signs both in English and Mongolian and is very easy to navigate. Clearing customs and border control was a quick process for us, taking no more than 10-15 minutes and we found ourselves exiting the airport in under 30 minutes of landing. There were no shops or restaurants in the arrival’s terminal, however there were several restaurants in the arrivals lobby after the customs area. ATM machines, a currency exchange store and a convenience store were also located in the arrivals lobby.
A visa is not required for any US citizen visiting Mongolia. Visas are required for stays longer than 90 days. Additionally, Mongolia does not currently require an arrival card to be filled out prior to travel.
Whereas arrival procedures to Chinggis Khaan International Airport was generally easy, departure was a bit more involved. Online check-in for international flights is not allowed at this airport, meaning that we had to check-in in person at a counter before we were issued our boarding passes. Check-in lines were long and slow moving, and we were busy patting ourselves on the back for our excellent time management as this was one of the only times that we’ve ever arrived early for a flight until we saw the security lines. Excruciatingly slow, the two security lines extended across almost the entire departure lobby. After an hour of moving one inch at a time, we finally found out why – not only were there just two small scanners but everyone also had to show their passports before placing their bags on the scanners and were required to take off their shoes and be scanned by a metal detector before proceeding. It took almost two hours from the time of check-in for us to arrive at our boarding gate at which time we decided that we just couldn’t keep going without food.
We immediately noticed that restaurants were scarce at the gates and our only options were a coffee spot or a ramen shop. Luckily for us, the ramen shop was located right next to our gate and so we decided to do some quick souvenir shopping before grabbing a bite. It was a well-thought-out plan until we returned to the Ramen restaurant only to be told that they had run out of ramen! Impossible you say? Well tell that to our grumbling bellies as we quickly downed some snacks and prayed that Korean Air was still planning on serving us an entire spread on this short flight back to Incheon. All this to say, make sure to eat after you check-in and before you go through security or risk your stomach making some truly mortifying sounds as you board your flight.
When to visit Mongolia
Due to its high altitude and the influence of the Siberian Anticyclone, Mongolia experiences long and harsh winters. For most of the year, the climate is cold and dry and is not ideal for visiting the countryside especially as tourist camps are often dismantled during these months. Generally speaking, the best months to visit Mongolia are the summer months of June through August when the temperatures rise and the grasslands begin to green. But, honestly speaking, unpredictable temperature spikes and frequent rain can make July and August somewhat uncomfortable times to visit as well. Knowing that there would be only a short span of time between the weather being beautifully temperate and hellishly hot, we gambled on early June being the ideal time for travel and were well rewarded. Admittedly, the grasslands were still greening up when we arrived in the first week of June, but the scenery was nevertheless splendid and the mild 70°F sunny days and 50°F cool nights plus the lack of rain and bugs made for perfect days in the Mongolian wilderness.
How to pack for Mongolia
Packing for Mongolia is a little challenging, especially given the need to travel light while moving from camp to camp. Add the fact that the weather is formidable and unpredictable, that there are no convenience stores in the wild meaning that you’ll have no choice but to carry all your necessities, and suddenly you’re faced with a seemingly insurmountable task. Not to worry though because if we could survive 10 days in the Mongolian countryside with just one small carry-on a piece, then so can you! When traveling to Mongolia in the summer, we recommend packing lightweight layers as the temperatures can wildly fluctuate during those months. Waterproof jackets, pants and hiking books are a must as sudden thunderstorms are common in the summer as well.
This might sound like overkill but having witnessed our yurt threatening to take flight in a brief thunderstorm, we assure you that your umbrella is essentially useless in such weather. We made sure to pack plenty of sunshade long sleeve shirts and long pants and did not regret it when, after one particularly windy hike, we returned to find tiny, spiked plant bits embedded in our clothes! Additionally, we recommend also bringing a face cover for those dusty and windy days, your own slippers to use in the shared showers, headlamps for the midnight bathroom runs in the darker camps and a good pair of binoculars so you can easily spot those light-footed gazelles.
Do you need cash in Mongolia?
The official currency of Mongolia is the Mongolia Tugrik (MNT). As Mongolia is yet to transition to a cashless economy, having Tugriks on hand is a must when traveling through the country. Cash is easy to obtain at the airport on arrival or at any of the local banks or currency exchanges in Ulaanbaatar however, currency exchange becomes exponentially more difficult once you leave the capital city therefore planning ahead is prudent and will ensure a much smoother trip. While many restaurants and stores in Ulaanbaatar and some of the smaller outlying towns did accept major foreign credit cards, many of the smaller more local eateries, convenience stores and practically all taxis did not. Because we planned to see the country through a guided, all-inclusive tour we didn’t need to have a lot of Tugriks on hand however having some meant we could easily tip our wonderful hosts at the Ger Camps plus we could spontaneously buy the rare handmade souvenirs we chanced upon.
What’s the official language of Mongolia?
As you are undoubtedly shocked to learn: the official language of Mongolia is, indeed, Mongolian. Although the majority of the country’s population speaks Mongolian, other languages such as Kazakh and Tuvan are also spoken in Mongolia, especially in the western parts of the nation. While English is not commonly spoken, we did encounter more locals than expected, even in remote areas, who spoke it quite passably. For our part, we spoke absolutely no Mongolian prior to arrival but are proud to say that, after daily language lessons by our guide, we can now awe our servers by rudely ordering bread, water and vodka! And although Mongolian is quite a direct language that does away with niceties such as hello and please, we nevertheless worked tirelessly, twisting our tongues to conform to the musical notes of Mongolian for nine whole days until we could finally say “bayarlalaa” or “thank you” properly to literally everyone we met.
So why didn’t we just use a translation app or tool? Well first, data and WiFi connectivity was spotty essentially rendering most of our translator tools useless. And second, Mongolian is written in Cyrillic letters which many translation tools have difficulty scanning and interpreting leading to a lot of moments of us and the poor souls we were trying to converse with just nodding in confusion. Anyway, what we’re trying to say is that having a guide who can serve as your translator throughout your tour of Mongolia makes for a much more fun and relaxing vacation.
Staying connected in Mongolia
While we were able to stay connected with Tmobile in Mongolia, particularly in Ulaanbaataar and some of the smaller towns en route to the Gobi Desert, we had really spotty service in the Gobi Desert itself and no service at all in most other areas of Mongolia that we visited. As you might expect, the more rural the area the less connectivity we had. In Jalman Meadows and the surrounding protected grasslands, we had absolutely no service. Well, if we’re being completely honest, there was one particular rock atop one specific hilltop in Jalman Meadows, pointed out to us by our guide of course, where our phones could get 2 bars of 3G service for those desperate moments when we absolutely could not miss another Spanish lesson on Duolingo. That being said, many Ger camps that we visited had WiFi available courtesy of Starlink so staying connected when necessary was not too difficult. Some camps did have a fee for using WiFi however the fees were generally just 2-3 USD, and the service was surprisingly fast and reliable.
How’s the food and water in Mongolia?
To be honest, Mongolian food was very different from what we expected. With Mongolia’s proximity to China, we assumed that the food there would be heavily influenced by Chinese techniques but oh boy were we wrong! And before you get to thinking it: No, there’s no such dish as the overly sticky-sweet American-Chinese Mongolian Beef in Mongolia! Anyway, what we did find was that many of the traditional Mongolian dishes seemed to be more Russian influenced than anything else. Being first and foremost a nomadic, herding culture, meat is predominant in the Mongolian diet and almost every meal features local beef or lamb. Chicken is not as common particularly as it must be imported from nearby countries and fish is even harder to come by as Mongolia is landlocked.
Ger camps cater to tourist taste and offer many western-style dishes as well as local fare so not to worry, there’s plenty to choose from even in the wilds of Mongolia.
But what dishes should you look for when in search of traditional Mongolian food? Well keep an eye out for restaurants serving things like Buuz (lamb-filled dumplings), Tsuivan (fried noodles with meat), Khorkhog (Mongolian barbecue) and Airag (fermented mares milk). While many of these delicacies are simple in their preparation, we found them to be rather well-prepared and very flavorful. That is, everything but the yak milk with salt that we just could not wrap our heads around. Surprisingly, only a handful of restaurants in Ulaanbaatar actually served traditional Mongolian foods such as these with most producing Korean-inspired dishes. In fact, we didn’t get to sample these unique treats until we set out for the Gers Camps in the countryside.
Looking for more food inspiration? Check us out HERE!
Where to stay in Mongolia
Ulaanbaatar
The capital city of Mongolia, Ulaanbaatar, is the largest metropolis in the country and is where most tourists entering Mongolia spend their first days. Although there are other cities throughout the country, they are quite small, and lodgings are limited hence most tourists remain in the Ulaanbaatar when not on a tour in the countryside. There is a good selection of hotels to choose from in Ulaanbaatar but keep in mind that these hotels are frequently fully booked up during the high season in Mongolia. Not knowing this ourselves, we procrastinated a tiny bit while planning our trip only to find that there was literally no hotel rooms left in the city on our arrival day.
Fortunately for us, Airbnb was operational in Ulaanbaatar, and we were able to rent apartments nearby to the main tourist attractions for very reasonable prices. Where a relatively small hotel room might have cost us $120-$200 USD per night in the heart of the city, our equally well-located and luxurious two-bedroom-2-bathroom apartments rented on Airbnb were a mere 70-80 USD per night. Plus, check in was very flexible and our hostesses were generous, making sure to meet us in person to smooth the check-in process. Overall, we would highly recommend booking Airbnbs in Ulaanbaatar rather than hotel rooms.
When renting Airbnbs in Ulaanbaatar, make sure to ask ahead if hot water is available or if the apartment has a boiler. This is important as most homes do not have their own hot water and rely on Ulaanbaatar’s centralized hot water that supplies the entire city, and you can easily find yourself in an area suffering from hot water outages.
The Mongolian Countryside
While finding accommodations is a standard process in Ulaanbaatar, once you leave the city to explore Mongolia’s natural beauty, finding a place to stay becomes a little more challenging. Outside of modern Ulaanbaatar, infrastructure is quite limited throughout Mongolia and most people live a nomadic camp lifestyle where yurts, or Gers to Mongolians, are the primary housing option. Made of latticed wood frames and insulated by synthetic material or animal hide, the Gers are a reliable and, most importantly, a very mobile form of housing for many Mongolians. To make way for the growing tourism industry, Ger Camps are are now raised seasonally all across Mongolia providing both housing and ease of access to the various natural wonders for tourists. With our plans to extensively tour the Gobi Desert, these Ger Camps were our only options for housing across the rugged countryside.
Although they may sound rustic, tourist camps are actually well-equipped with each Ger having electricity and good furnishings. With the exception of protected areas like Jalman Meadows, all camps also have communal western style showers and toilets and even provide hot water!
Just as with hotels in Ulaanbaatar, Ger Camps for tourists are often fully booked so reservations are a must. But how exactly does one make reservations at a remote camp with no actual address and no listed phone number? Well, the short answer is you don’t! To secure reservations and find the camp, a tour guide/company is absolutely necessary! While there were many companies to choose from, we selected Nomadic Journeys as they were one of only a few operators offering fully customizable private tours. Our assigned tour operator worked with us to create an itinerary and to reserve the appropriate Gers at each destination. As we traveled from Ger Camp to Ger Camp, we noticed that the basic layout was the same in the camps. In addition to the Gers, each camp also had a building that served as the main dining hall and two other buildings that served as male and female toilets and showers. Some Ger camps provided slippers for use, but being of the highest order of germaphobes, we brought our own which was usually for busier camps that tended to run out of them in the showers. The Gers were furnished differently at each camp but were generally luxurious with clean comfortable beds and seating areas. We were surprised to find that we could even request a double bed at many of the camps. Despite mostly being the same in appearance, we were surprised to find that Gers were actually built differently in each camp with some carrying the odors of the animal hide used for insulation while others had no scent at all thanks to synthetic insulation. Aside from a harrowing encounter or two with moths at a few camps and, although we’re not much for camping ourselves, we found the Gers to be luxurious in most cases and shockingly relaxing.
The cost of one night’s stay in a Ger Camp is, on average, 120-200 USD per night and includes your stay and three meals. The restaurant facilities at each tourist camp are substantial and provide 3-course chef-created meals for lunch and dinner and large buffets for breakfast.
Getting around Mongolia
As a result of its vast, undeveloped wilderness, Mongolia is one of only a few remaining “last frontier” nations in the world. It should therefore come as no surprise that Mongolia lacks infrastructure such as roads and railways. This doesn’t mean that there are no roads, just that there are fewer of them than one might expect for such a large country. While most towns, and Ulaanbaatar of course, have paved roadways and, while there are highways connecting the major regions of the country, the majority of Mongolia can be traversed only by dirt roads. So, how should you plan to get around while in Mongolia?
Taxis and Rideshares
Let’s start by saying that there are currently no Rideshares such as Uber or Lyft in Mongolia. The best way to travel short distances and to get around Ulaanbaatar is by far through the use of Taxis or on foot when possible. Taxis in the city are classified as either official or unofficial with the official taxis being associated with a legitimate cab company and unofficial ones being just a local resident with a car offering rides for a price. Both the official and unofficial taxis are safe to use however as many drivers don’t speak English, you should be prepared to provide your destination either on a map app or having it written out in Mongolian before you enter the cab. Although official taxis can be booked by calling the local dispatch company, almost everyone in Ulaanbaatar hails cabs the old fashion way: by standing on the curb with a thumb out.
Cabs are relatively inexpensive, however because there are more people than taxis in the city, you may find yourself sharing a cab or waiting for a while to get your own. Note that credit cards are not accepted by Mongolian taxis and cash is required for payment. While planning our trip, we noticed that most of the Ulaanbaatar attractions were within walking distance of each other so, to avoid the hassles of traffic and finding taxis, we simply planned our stays in areas that placed us close to our points of interest.
Exercise caution when walking in Ulaanbaatar as you’ll be sharing the sidewalks with scooters and other small, motorized vehicles that are ridden exclusively on sidewalks and are often operated by minors who have questionable motor skills on a good day.
Driving in Mongolia
While the idea of renting a car and hitting the open roads in Mongolia on our own was practically irresistible to us, we now know that doing this would’ve been the single most disastrous decision of our trip! As we’ve mentioned once or twice before, paved roads in Mongolia only exist in cities and towns and there are only a few point-to-point highways. Many of the natural wonders of Mongolia can only be seen by off-roading along dirt tracks and even across shallow rivers and streams in a sturdy vehicle. To further add to the challenge, the dirt roads shift and branch in many directions and there are, of course, almost no names and no signs to help lead you to wherever you may be heading. Additionally, cell service is very limited therefore getting lost in the wilderness is a very real possibility. Oh, and did we mention that you need a full set of tools and some skills with car repairs to ensure that you don’t get stranded when your car inevitably gets roughed up by the rugged terrain? Having learned all this from some quick research, we were more than happy to hand the reigns, or in this case the keys, to a local driver and just enjoy the magnificent scenery unfolding before us while someone else worried about how to get to the next stop for a change.
If you decide to brave driving off-road in Mongolia, make sure to keep a full gas can on hand as rural gas stations are known to run low or run out of gas altogether.
You may be thinking: but what if I just want to drive through Ulaanbaatar or just take a roadtrip using just the highways? Well, first, consider that Ulaanbaatar’s horrendous traffic is a formidable foe. Arriving to the city on a Saturday and departing it the following Sunday, we were initially fooled by the somewhat quiet streets into believing that stories of the traffic in the city were overblown. This misconception was quickly cast off though when making our way back into the city on a Thursday afternoon at just after 2pm, we found ourselves at a standstill just mere kilometers from our destination. We’re not exaggerating when we tell you that it took us 1.5 hours to travel just 3 kilometers! Now, if the traffic doesn’t really faze you because you plan to leave the city anyway, well let’s just say that highway travel in Mongolia has its challenges as well.
From bumpy patches and cavernous potholes to occasional road floods and frequent animal crossings, the paved highways of Mongolia require razor-sharp focus when driving to avoid catastrophe which, we assure you, is always just one bump away! All this to say, hiring a local driver that knows the roads and routes is a lifesaver and is the best way to guarantee a hassle-free, fun-filled trip through Mongolia.
There are tolls on the highways that must be paid in Tugriks. If you want to save a buck at the tollbooths, we learned that if you have extra large bills in Tugrik, then the attendants may let you through for free because they’re unable to provide change. While we can’t guarantee this’ll work every time, our tour guide got away with it at least once and, from the look of delight in his eyes, we know this’ll be his new tollbooth strategy.
Top Things to do in Ulaanbaatar
Take a dip in the Tuul River!
Running through much of the country, the scenic Tuul River serves multiple purposes in Mongolia. Not only is the river a major source of water for cities like Ulaanbaatar, it is also one of the main ways that fish is sourced in the country. As important as these functions are, the river serves one even more crucial purpose: swimming! Being landlocked, Mongolians have no access to beaches save for those found on lakes and the banks of the Tuul. On our way into Ulaanbaatar, we were stunned to see people casually diving into and basking in the river just before it entered the city but the more, we thought about it the more it made sense: most of the world loves a good swim on a hot day so why shouldn’t Mongolians!? Now, due to the impacts of mining, the portion of the Tuul River running through Ulaanbaatar is polluted and is not safe for swimming however, the upper reaches of the river that are away from the city have good, clean water and is safe to take a dip in.
Go Cashmere Shopping!
Producing 40% of the world’s supply of raw Cashmere, Mongolia and, specifically Ulaanbaatar, is an excellent place to get your hands on this pricey commodity. With various, well-reviewed Cashmere factory-stores scattered throughout the city, all selling Cashmere at a third of the price of most western stores, a shopping spree is more than a worthwhile way to spend an afternoon in Ulaanbaatar. We visited the EVSEG Cashmere Factory Store where we were offered a free tour of the Cashmere production lines. To say that we were impressed with the displays, the quality of the clothing and prices would be an understatement. Oh, and did we mention that there’s an in-house fashion show held right on the sales floor where models present the latest Cashmere designer wear created by EVSEG in the spring and summer seasons?
Make sure to ask for the tax refund discount when doing any significant shopping in Mongolia. Many stores may fail to offer it however you are entitled to a certain percentage discount for being a foreign shopper. Also, if you have a guide, make sure to go with them to the cashmere store this way you can enjoy the additional discounts that guests of guide companies receive from the stores. One other benefit to going with a guide is that many factories refuse to show their production lines to customers unless a guide is also present.
Check out the giant Chinggis Khaan Statute
Located about an hour away from Ulaanbaatar, the magnificent Chinggis Khaan statue is a must-see when in Mongolia. Standing at 130 feet tall, the impressive stainless-steel statue depicts the famed conqueror who united much of the world sitting atop his steed while gazing out across the lush grasslands of his home. Cleverly built, the Chinggis Khaan statue complex sits beneath the impressive effigy and houses a museum, souvenir shops and several eateries. There’s a small fee to enter the museum from which visitors can access a special set of stairs to climb the statue from within, emerging to a spectacular view of the grasslands on the neck of Chinggis Khaan’s horse. There is an elevator available, albeit a slow one, for those unable to make the climb.
Visit the Aryabal Temple at Gorkhi Terelj National Park
Nestled in the Terelj River valley, Gorkhi Terelj National Park is a popular day trip destination from Ulaanbaatar. Situated just 60 km away from the city, the park is easily accessible via paved roads and features majestic granite mountains surrounding a breathtaking valley. While there are miles of trails to hike or horseback ride along in the park, the most popular hike is a short but steep trail leading up to the Aryabal Meditation Temple. To enter the park, we paid a small fee then set out on the trail to the temple which began right at the entrance of the park. Due to the elevation and constant uphill slope, the 0.6-mile climb was more work than we expected however the literally hundreds of Buddhist sayings posted along the trail made for enlightening reading whenever we needed to pause for to catch our breath.
In fact, walking slowly enough to allow the reading of each saying is perhaps the best pace to set for yourself as well as a great way to distract yourself from the arduous climb! It took us about 25 minutes to arrive at the temple from which we were treated to unparalleled views of the splendid river valley. Although we didn’t have time to meditate, we made sure to circumambulate the monastery and spin the prayers wheels, in a clockwise direction of course, to accumulate a little good luck for the rest of our trip.
Take a picture at Turtle Rock!
Also located within Gorkhi Terelj National Park, the gigantic, almost 80-feet tall Turtle Rock is an attraction that requires no effort to see as it sits right along the road to the national park. Eroded by natural elements into the shape of a turtle, this granite phenomenon is easy to explore and snap photos of before making your way into the park.
See the Tumen Ekh Ensemble!
Showcasing Mongolian culture through music and dance, the Tumen Ekh Ensemble is one of the leading heritage shows in Ulaanbaatar. The show is held nightly at 6pm in downtown Ulaanbaatar and tickets must be purchased onsite prior to the show. Featuring colorful traditional wear, folk songs, regionals dances, throat singing and even an orchestra, Tumen Ekh Ensemble was a one-of-kind, invaluable glimpse into Mongolian history and culture that we could not have obtained anywhere else.
Our Epic Roadtrip to the Gobi Desert and Jalman Meadows
Gobi Desert
On our second day in Mongolia we departed Ulaanbaatar, embarking on what would be a 6-day adventure to explore the Gobi Desert beginning in Baga Gazriin Chuluu and ending in Khongor Sands. Normally, visitors to Khongor Sands can travel the 500+ kilometers comfortably on a mere one-hour flight from Ulaanbaatar to a regional airport in the desert but as the airport was undergoing construction, we had little choice but to make the lengthy drive. Being lovers of the open road and keen to see as much of Mongolia as we could in our too-limited time, we didn’t mind the impending roadtrip at all. Heading south from Ulaanbaatar with our driver and tour guide in tow, the city quickly fell away until it was just us, the two-lane road and wide expanses of green lands as far as the eye could see.
With no clear agenda except to make it to our first tourist Ger Camp by dinner time, we set a slow pace pausing to enjoy the scenery and a mid-morning coffee break out the back of our tailgate in an open field just off the highway. Aside from our two travel companions and a herd of horses, we found ourselves completely alone, surrounded by silver grass swaying beneath a leaden sky that promised rain in the near future. Packing in our coffee cups, we continued south for just a few short miles before we spotted tents on a hilltop and bustling activity that beckoned us to come see what all the fuss was about. We left the highway, making our way to a cluster of vehicles that we realized were all off-road rally race cars, ATVs and dirt bikes gearing up for an epic, backcountry race. Car enthusiasts that we are, we couldn’t resist watching the race get underway while we flipped between filming the race and eating our picnic lunch.
Reluctantly taking our leave of the still-underway race two hours later, we continued along the highway for a few miles before our driver abruptly turned off onto an unmarked dirt road and began the first of our many off-road, rollercoaster like rides in the Gobi. After about an hour of bouncing around in the backseat but still in high spirits and somehow miraculously not carsick, we arrived at the first camp, or so we thought. Waving down a camp attendant who promptly came to assist us, we were told that we had arrived at the wrong camp. Fortunately, our tour guide had enough phone service to call for directions and we were soon happily bouncing along another dirt track that could easily break an ankle but not our reliable, beast of a 4-wheel drive SUV. Two more stops at incorrect camps and 45 minutes later, we finally checked into our Ger and made our way to our first destination: Baaga Gazriin Chuluu.
Standing at just over 5800 feet tall, the granite hills and rock formations of Baaga Gazriin Chuluu were spectacular to behold. The area was vast, offering many canyons to hike and even ruins of a monastery to explore. As we climbed up and over the seemingly never-ending rock formations and eventually down into a wildflower-filled valley, we were blown away by the expansive, verdant steppe before us that was so still and unblemished that it appeared frozen in time.
We ended our exploration of this part of South Gobi Desert at a curious little attraction hidden in the rocks of Baaga Gazriin Chuluu: a tiny hole filled with rainwater purported to having healing properties. Conveniently, a thin, long ladle was left by the hole for those wanting to touch the water and, of course, there was quite a line of people awaiting their turn with the miracle water. In accordance with our luck, there was no water left in the well by the time we got to the front of the line, of course. We weren’t too disheartened though as we noticed our guide, who claimed to have previously used the healing waters for his vision, using the largest font possible on his phone while holding it right up to his eyes and still having to squint to make out the words. Perhaps it was simply just a lack of faith on his part though as, according to him, all we needed to do was believe in the miracle of the water. Oh well…maybe next time we’ll get our chance at curing acne and lactose intolerance. Still, we were pretty satisfied with our first day, deciding to end it with a gorgeous sunset walk back to our camp.
Having accomplished all that we wanted to at Baaga Gazriin Chuluu, we left our Ger early the following morning intent on reaching the next camp before noon and our highlight for that day, Tsagaan Suvarga, by early afternoon. For the two hundred kilometers that we mostly traveled by dirt roads, we saw not a single soul or building, just the occasional caravan of camels grazing in the vast fields. Thanks to the unmatched skills of our driver, we made the trip in record time, arriving with enough time for lunch and a nap before heading out to explore Tsagaan Suvarga also known as the White Stupa. Despite what the name suggests, Tsagaan Suvarga was actually quite colorful with the cliffs exhibiting eye-catching pink, red and orange layers that rivaled even the famed Artists Palate found in Death Valley National Park in the United States.
Dropping us off at the top of the Stupa and leaving us with instructions on how to return to camp, our driver set us and our guide free to roam as we pleased taking in the splendid views of the colors on display below us. Not satisfied to just observe the scenery, however, our guide then embarked on a mission to find a trail from the precipice on which we stood into the valley below. Taking off after him, we followed a narrow, steep path that, at first, seemed traversable, until we found ourselves snagged by some wickedly spiny shrubs. Lacking a machete to cut our way through, we turned back and decided to retrace our steps down the dirt road we had driven in on and into the valley. By this time, the late afternoon sun had reached the cliffs amplifying the colors 100-fold and giving us endless, incredible photo opportunities. When we had taken no less than a hundred pictures, we set off for our camp which we thought spied in the distance. A pleasant hour of walking later, we arrived at a camp that was definitely not ours. A few minutes of confusion and many bouts of tearful laughter later, our guide proceeded to call our driver who also promptly burst into laughter so loudly we could hear him 10 feet away. Heeding our driver’s advice, we set off once again into the fields with no particular direction in mind, simply following his directive to keep walking. As we had daylight until 9-10pm or so, we weren’t worried and kept strolling along as directed until we saw our vehicle heading toward us from a completely unexpected direction. When he was done laughing at us, our driver later told us that we had exited the cliffs in the completely opposite direction of where he directed us to go! As to how he found us in the middle of a random field without any landmarks, it is now one of the great mysteries of our lives!
After the calamity of the day before, we settled into a comfortable camaraderie with our guide and driver and finally got a good grasp of what our remaining days on tour would look like as we continued working our way south, further into the Gobi Desert. From the White Stupa, we off-roaded for another 200 kilometers to Bayanzag a.k.a the Flaming Cliffs. On arrival, we paid the entrance fee and watched with rapt attention as the mandatory 20-minute video illustrated the discovery of the first fossilized dinosaur eggs in the now famous cliffs. Once again, our guide timed our arrival perfectly to catch the afternoon sun as it slanted on the orange cliffs, setting them on fire and creating a glowing spectacle that was indeed a photographer’s paradise. You’ll be pleased to know that having learned from the fiasco of the previous day, we were successful in finding a path into the valley below from which we could admire the cliffs and marvel at the dig sites where dinosaur bones once lay and make it back to camp without getting lost!
Departing early the following morning, there was a certain anticipation and excitement in the air as we finally approached the highlight of our south Gobi tour: Khongor Els. As we had been particularly good that morning — dressed, packed, and in the car by 8am which borders on the miraculous with us — our guide decided to reward us with a short detour to the Khavtsgait Petroglyphs. On this even more scenic drive, we couldn’t help but notice that we had been in the Gobi Desert for 4 days so far yet everything we’d seen was green and meadow-like with not a grain of sand in sight. Crossing a few dried riverbeds, we arrived to the foothills of a small mountain and spied the gravel trail climbing towards the Petroglyphs, all of which were located on top of the mountain. One intense 20-minute climb later, we crested the peak to see some 200 petroglyphic scenes scattered all across the landscape. Mostly from the Bronze Age (4000-3000 BC), the Petroglyphs showcased animals, weapons, herders and hunting scenes and, despite so many years of exposure to the elements, were remarkably well preserved. As if this collection of ancient art wasn’t enough of a wow factor, the views of the surrounding steppe from this elevated position were breathtaking. Convincing ourselves to leave was more difficult than expected and not just because the thought of climbing back down the steep, loose gravel trail set our palms to sweating!
From the petroglyphs, we continued our journey through the surprisingly grassy desert, spotting gazelles galloping alongside us and camels trotting about in the distance. As we drove, the landscape gradually changed from flat to hilly, until we found ourselves in a mountain range, marveling at the jagged peaks around us. Shortly after emerging from the mountain pass, we finally caught sight of the golden sand dunes for which we had traveled so far. With the looming mountain range as its backdrop, the dazzling sands of Khongor dunes rose majestically from the carpet of green at its base creating a truly one-of-a-kind vista. Climbing the dunes later that day, we were struck both by the unmatched beauty of the dunes and the thought that we could see such a variety of landscapes — mountains, desert sand dunes and grasslands — all from a single vantage point! As we stood atop one of the many dunes, we witnessed another of the magical features of Khongor dunes — the singing sands! Created by the wind and the movement of the sand, the sounds of Khongor dunes enveloped us adding yet another enchanting element to the already mesmerizing scenery.
With our time in the Gobi Desert coming to a close, we set out once more for Ulaanbaatar stopping to explore Yol Valley, another idiosyncratic feature of this odd desert. Despite being a part of the desert, Yol Valley is known for being ice-filled for most of the year, including some of the warmer summer months. Situated 7200 feet above sea level, the valley is accessible via a 10-kilometer dirt road that winds its way through the mountains, ending at a gravel parking lot. Skirting the pungent horse stables nearby the parking lot, we hiked the short 25-minute trail into the valley feeling as though we had walked into a Disney movie scene as wildflowers swayed in the wind and adorable little creatures, called Pikas, curiously stared at us from their hidey holes on the hillsides. Sadly, we did not find a gorge filled with some 20 plus feet of ice as we had hoped but were nevertheless charmed by the rugged, soaring granite peaks cloaked in juniper bushes, the rushing stream that bisected the valley and the curious creatures that greeted on our hike.
Jalman Meadows
Having already visited so many incredible places on our grand Mongolian tour, we couldn’t help but feel that although we would undoubtedly find it beautiful, Jalman Meadows would nevertheless be much like the other landscapes we had seen thus far. Leaving Ulaanbaatar, we traveled for an hour by highway before once again braving the teeth-rattling dirt roads that would eventually bring us to the meadows. At once, we were stuck by the lush pasture that appeared before us, quickly coming to understand that what we thought were grasslands in the Gobi Desert could not hold a torch to this pristine, grassy paradise. As we drove by miles upon miles of gorgeous grasslands bedecked with colorful wildflowers we were enthralled by the powerful horses racing with wild abandon and humbled to bear witness to such wild beauty.
Many photo stops later, we continued to meander through the pasture, slowly making our way to Jalman Meadows, when we noticed a festive collection of tents in the distance. Unable to resist another impromptu adventure, we detoured towards the gathering and were thrilled to learn that it was a horse-racing festival! As the only outsiders there, we were surprised at the warm welcome we received from the local nomadic families who not only invited us to share their tents and food but to partake in the local games too! Although we were on a time crunch and couldn’t stay for the actual race, we loved the folk music and dance performances and were honored to have been invited to share in the fun and local traditions.
Another hour of scenic driving put us at the edge of Gorkhi-Terelj National Park, at last leaving the pastures behind. As we entered the Khan Khentii Strictly Protected Area, the terrain changed right before our eyes once again, surprising us as it transitioned from flat lands to rolling hills covered in more trees than we had seen anywhere else in Mongolia. Awestruck by the stunning scenery around us, we quietly absorbed the splendor until our guide announced that we had arrived at Jalman Meadows and pointed to a lone camp on top of a hill in the distance. As we approached the camp, he went on to explain that we were now in a very protected area where no modern amenities such as plumbing, electricity or internet was available. We also learned that this was one of the most isolated eco-camps in the area and that we were to be the only guests there for the duration of our stay. While this left us feeling slightly unnerved at first, our trepidation fell away as we arrived to a warm welcome by the entire staff who went all out to make us feel at home. As we toured the camp, we couldn’t help but feel that our circumambulation at the Aryabal Temple was paying off because how else would we be so lucky as to have this paradise all to ourselves?
Arriving on a particularly cold and windy day, we were not surprised to learn that we now stood in the wilderness extending to the Russian-Siberian border. With the frigid wind at our backs, we entered our Ger to find it warm and cozy. More insulated than any other Ger we had stayed in so far, this Ger was specially made for cooler temperatures and was even equipped with a wood-burning stove and plenty of wool blankets for warmth. We were also pleasantly surprised to find that the camp was solar powered and that we had electricity in our Ger. The biggest shock though was the discovery of a small sink in the Ger that provided a trickle of running water, something we had not thought possible in a Ger this remote!
Because of the lack of plumbing and a septic system due to the need to preserve the area, flushing toilets did not exist at the camp. What we had instead amounted to very fancy latrines, or eco-toilets as they called them, that miraculously were not at all smelly or gross. Showering in the camp was another interesting experience for us as it was done nomadic style with water being carried from the river, heated on a wood stove then poured into buckets with shower heads attached to them!
With much to do at hand, our days in the serenity of the meadows passed in a blissful blur. From horseback riding through the meadows, rafting down the Tuul River and hiking through the valleys to quietly reading away the evening in our Ger, we found ourselves completely content. Never before in our travels had we ever felt so safe and at peace, as if we were in our very own home! And, as our time in Jalman Meadows drew to a close, we realized that this newfound sense of belonging would forever connect us to this unforgettable country and its welcoming people. When it was finally time to go, we left Jalman Meadows not with heavy hearts but with a sense of fulfillment and purpose, knowing that, sooner rather than later, we would find our way back to Mongolia.
