Chasing The Aurora Borealis in Northern Finland
It’s been said that we, as a people, have widely explored the world and, as such, there are but a few untouched places left to experience. With the exception of the oceans, we appear to have captured almost all of the most fantastic places and phenomena of the world in pictures and movies so that everyone can enjoy them without the need to travel there themselves. This is all well and good but we’re here to tell you that even though you may have seen a thousand pictures of a natural wonder, there is a certain magic that can only be felt by witnessing that phenomenon firsthand. In this case we are specifically speaking of the ever-elusive Aurora Borealis aka The Northern Lights.
At considerable personal risk given our love of warm temperatures and general lack of cold weather survival skills, we traveled through Alaska, most of Scandinavia including two visits to Iceland and even went as far as Svalbard way up in the Arctic Circle without once seeing the Aurora. If, by now, you’ve read any of our other articles covering Scandinavia and feel inclined to point out that we visited in the time of the midnight sun and of course it would not be dark enough to see the lights well…we will concede that you have a point but what can we say…we’re only human and therefore want our cake and the chance to eat it too!
Honestly, we assumed that we would one day simply end up in the perfect place at the perfect time and, voila, the Aurora would present itself to us. Well, it turns out that we’re just not that lucky. In fact, while the lights do “just appear” when conditions are ideal you’ve got to be in the right place at the right time to see them which requires planning unless you are fortunate enough to live in an area frequently graced by this marvel.
Having seen most of Scandinavia except for Finland and Sweden, we decided to kill two birds with one stone and make Finland our next stop on our quest to see the Aurora. Some quick reading showed the Finnish countryside aka the Lapland to be located within the Arctic circle and to be a hotspot for frequent visitation by the Aurora. Although there seems to be considerable debate on the ideal time for viewing even amongst the Finnish themselves, the general consensus seems to be that October through March offers the best opportunities to see the Lights. This might seem like a fairly long window but keep in mind that we’re talking about the Arctic circle here where unpredictable weather makes for frequently overcast skies which means, you guessed it, no chance of viewing the Aurora. In fact, we heard too frequently horror stories of visitors spending weeks in pursuit without ever seeing the lights. Incidentally, we just so happened to have the perfect amount of time off in October to resume our hunt.
What Is The Finnish Lapland And How Does One Get There?
The Finnish Lapland is the northernmost area of Finland and is located within the Arctic Circle. It is bordered by Norway, Sweden, and Russia. The area is very sparsely populated and is home to the indigenous Sami people, a vast subarctic wilderness, numerous bodies of water, the midnight sun, the polar night and, of course, the Aurora Borealis. Despite being only a relatively short drive away from Norway with its magnificent mountains and fjords, the Finnish Lapland itself is not particularly mountainous. There are some mountains, albeit smaller ones, in the area that make for excellent skiing in the wintertime but we would advise you to pack away any visions of looming, jagged snowcapped peaks as these simply do not exist here.
Getting to the Lapland is straightforward. If you have the time, then you could choose to drive from Helsinki via the E75 making stops along the way at the various quaint towns. This route would take a total of just over 12 hours of drive time to get to the towns of the Lapland. There is also a night train from Helsinki to the city of Rovaniemi which is known as the gateway city to the Lapland and as the home of Santa Claus. This could be a fun way to get there as the train is a double-decker sleeper train that makes the journey in 15 hours and is whimsically named the Santa Claus Express. Who wouldn’t want to take Santa’s train directly to Santa’s house!?
We chose the third and more efficient but, dare we say, much less interesting way to get to the Lapland which was a short 1.5 hour flight from Helsinki. There are two main airports in the Lapland region, one in the town of Ivalo and the other in Kittila. At present, there appears to be one flight daily from Helsinki to both these towns with the plane stopping at both airports in one trip so that you can choose whether you want to disembark in Ivalo or stay on the plane and continue to Kittila. In fact, if you chose to remain on the plane, you would simply return to Helsinki eventually and complete the full circuit. We enjoyed our flights particularly as the Finnish airports, like all the other Scandinavian airports we’ve been through, were exceptionally organized and got us to our destinations quickly and with practically no hassle.
When To Visit The Lapland?
When to visit is entirely up to you and what your goals are. The Lapland has four seasons as you would expect with each of them offering something unique to experience. Spring starts later in the Lapland and can remain snowy as late as June. Summer is known for the extraordinarily long days, the midnight sun, cloudberries, and the terrifying swarms of mosquitoes. Fall sees the return of night and the cold along with the glorious golden leaves. Winter with its long nights, blankets of snow and subzero temperatures is … believe it or not, the star season of the Lapland with all the sleepy towns coming to life for skiing, Aurora hunting and dogsledding.
Having read that the Aurora Borealis can be viewed more frequently in the Autumn and Spring, we were excited that we would be in the region in October. We quickly learned that Fall in the Lapland is considered the off season and that many of the attractions and activities were not available. Additionally, all the beautiful golden leaves had already fallen off the trees by the time of our arrival and it was obvious that we were edging up on the start of winter. These minor setbacks didn’t overshadow our time there however as we were treated to clear skies for our hunt, had our pick of restaurants without the need for reservations and were more likely to be upgraded to nicer accommodation wherever we stayed.
Is A Rental Car Necessary?
We would say: Yes, absolutely! While there are buses that serve the airports and that go between the various towns in the Lapland for relatively cheap fare, having a rental car will allow much needed autonomy if your goal is to undertake an Aurora hunt for several nights in a row. Even if seeing the northern lights is not the main focus of your trip, having a rental car in this very sparsely populated destination will open a world of possibilities when it comes to discovering the hidden gems in the area particularly as the towns of the region can be 2-3 hours apart from each other. If you’re traveling in the off season, before winter that is, then having the rental car also saves a fair bit of money as you can avoid paying for tours to see the area and drive it yourself at your own pace particularly as there really is just one main roadway and getting lost is impossible. We do recommend having some sort of GPS app for guidance just for peace of mind: we primarily used the WAZE app which we continue to be amazed by as it just seems to work almost everywhere! Gas prices were on the expensive side however we rented a hybrid electric vehicle and paid in total no more than 60 USD for gas despite four days of driving around the Lapland area. The real value of having the rental for us though, if we’re being totally honest, was not getting stranded out in freezing weather while waiting for public transportation. For instance, we encountered some unfortunate souls in a parking lot outside of a hotel reception that was closed and had signage directing everyone to travel to their second reception area that was 2 miles away. These folks had been dropped off by bus and therefore had no easy way of getting from one location to the next. We couldn’t offer rides to the entire party on account of our car being one size up from a matchbox and running the risk of it already looking like a clown car with just two people in it however we were able to get to the next stop and get help sent back. So once again we’d say the car was well worth its price.
Where Is The Best Place To Stay?
Where to stay really depends on what your main focus is once you arrive to the Lapland. Since our goal was primarily to see the Aurora, picking a place to stay was relatively easy mainly because a friend, having heard some about our Scandinavian escapades, mentioned the existence of glass igloos from which a person could lay in bed perfectly warm and comfortable and enjoy the Aurora directly above. Now who could resist such a place right?
Brief research of the area revealed the existence of two igloo resorts in the Lapland; one by the name of Kakslauttanen in the city of Saariselkä and one by the name of Levin Iglut located in Kittila. We chose the Kakslauttanen Igloo mostly because of a phenomenal price drop in the rental rate. It also didn’t hurt that the resort was located just 30 minutes away from the Ivalo airport and 10 minutes away from the fabulous restaurants in the town of Saariselkä. We may be willing to risk life and limb on these adventures but never starvation!
Because we intended to spend four nights hunting the Aurora and because the cost of one night in the glass igloo was upwards of 400 USD and the basic igloo lacked a full bathroom, we opted to spend only one night in the igloo. The remainder of our time was very comfortably spent at the Star Arctic hotel in Saariselkä which, as it turned out, was located at one of the best spots in the area for viewing the Northern Lights.
Star Arctic Hotel
The Star Arctic hotel is much like many of the other hotels in the Lapland region offering well equipped rooms and stand-alone cabins with glass ceilings. What sets the hotel apart from its competitors though is its location atop the Kaunispää fell which is one of the highest drivable hilltops in the area. With no tall trees surrounding the hotel and no other buildings in the vicinity, the hotel offers completely unobstructed views of the sky! Imagine watching the moon and sun rise right from your bed without having to do much more than turn your head!
We decided to book a stand-alone glass ceiling cabin which was relatively cheap at 160 USD per night. Our cabin could sleep four with a queen-sized bed and two trundle beds, had ample storage space, a full bathroom, a safe, a minibar, a small eating area, a smart tv, excellent Wi-Fi, heated floors throughout and the glass ceiling itself was heated as well. We were surprised to find that even though the hotel seemed rustic from the outside it was clean, modern, and even offered multiple charging stations for electric vehicles right outside the cabins and other rooms. It was also a huge plus that our stay included an excellent breakfast buffet and access to the on-site restaurant which offered beautifully prepared dishes with locally sourced ingredients only. If you’re a fussy eater and need something new for dinner every night, then you’ll be happy to know that the hotel is only a 5-minute drive from a number of top-notch restaurants in Saariselkä.
Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort
Located just 10 minutes away from Saariselkä, the Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort offers an immensely distinct experience to that of the Star Arctic hotel. Where the Star Arctic hotel is at a higher elevation making it windy and cold overall, the glass igloos and cabins of Kakslauttanen are scattered throughout the surrounding pine forest.
The resort has an East and West village located approximately 10 minutes away from each other. The East village has its own reception area located right off the main highway (E75) and the igloos are also situated fairly close to and are, in fact, visible from the highway. The West Village is located about 2 miles away from the East Village and is somewhat more remote with its own reception as well. The main difference between the villages is that the West Village is significantly larger and has an igloo area as well as extensive cabin and “Kelo cabin” areas.
With sparse information available on the internet as to how to choose where to stay in the resort, we followed some online reviewers’ suggestions and booked an East Village igloo as it was portrayed as being the more “remote” of the two villages. Of course, we were disappointed to see the igloos so close to the main road on arrival but, luckily for us, the East Village turned out to be closed for the season and we were moved to the West Village! Another bit of good fortune came on check in when we were upgraded from the small glass igloo to a Kelo cabin. We were initially concerned that we’d be missing out on experiencing the glass igloo, however it turned out that the Kelo cabin was a combination room with a small glass igloo connected to a huge cabin!
While the igloos are undoubtedly extremely charming, they are rather small in size and are furnished with only a queen-sized bed or two twin beds pushed together. There is plenty of counter space in the igloo but no seating. There is a small bathroom comprised of a sink and a toilet but no shower. There are communal showers and saunas on the grounds. Staying in the igloo can be akin to living in a fishbowl with all that glass, however, there are some curtains along the lowest level of glass and no drones are allowed on the property in order to allow some degree of privacy. If you’re feeling daring and decide to flout the rules and fly a drone, then be ready to pay out a hefty fine of about 500 euros.
As mentioned before, the substantially more expensive and larger Kelo igloo to which we were upgraded was comprised of the standard igloo attached to a well-appointed log cabin. This igloo was different in several ways; the first being that it did not have any counter space but did have 2 reclining armchairs and the second being the lack of a bathroom. It did have the same bed and lower glass section privacy curtains and came with a set of blackout curtains to separate it from the adjoining cabin if desired. The cabin itself was enormous and could house an additional 4 people comfortably with its own king-sized bed, a couch/bunk bed combo, a picnic-style dining table to seat 6, a fireplace, a kitchenette, a modern bathroom and even its own sauna! We would say that the Kelo cabin managed to be spacious yet warm and cozy and is definitely worth its cost. We were more than a little saddened to be spending only one night there.
A couple of features that make Kakslauttanen an extra luxurious experience whether you stay in an igloo, or a cabin is the notably fast Wi-Fi, the included breakfast and dinner services and the Aurora alarm which sounds when the lights are visible, so you won’t miss out on seeing them even if you fall asleep! Also, for a small fee, the hotel staff will bring firewood to your cabin and build you a roaring fire so you can either defrost yourself or roast marshmallows or just sit in the rocking chair and enjoy being in one of the most remarkable places in the world.
Some things to note about the resort are that there are no TVs and that the cabins and igloos are fairly close to each other but still allow a general feeling of seclusion. Additionally, the resort covers a very large area and can be convoluted so be sure to follow the map provided on check in. In the west village, there is a short walk to the reception hall where meals are served and, while the pathways have some lighting, there are areas where the path becomes difficult to see at night so having a small flashlight is a plus. We used the flashlight on our phones which worked well enough. Finally, if you hear some eery howling on your walk, don’t follow in our footsteps and go panic running back to your cabin because, as we later learned to our own consternation, the sounds were just the howls of the adorable Arctic hounds that were housed nearby- not the vicious wolves our overactive imagination!
Fun Things To Do In The Lapland In The Off Season
If you’re visiting the Lapland in the winter then you can expect all manner of winter activities like dogsledding through the snow, skiing, and ice fishing in addition to the Aurora hunt. If, however, you’re in the Lapland in the off season then options may seem limited, but we can assure you that there are plenty of ways to while away the day while anticipating nightfall and all the excitement to come.
1. Take A Hike
Hiking in the Lapland is generally serene and a great way to get to know the land. With numerous fells, a vast pine wilderness and lots of marshlands at hand, there’s plenty to explore. There is some wildlife like brown bears, lynxes, arctic foxes and such in the area however you’re more likely to run into curious reindeers than any other more menacing creatures. Furthermore, if you visit in the Autumn then the chances of a frightful animal encounter is significantly lower since some of the wildlife would have already begun their hibernation. Be sure to check out the Sompio-talo Wilderness Center located in Tankavaara and the beautiful nature trails surrounding the center.
2. Go For A Bike Ride
Just like hiking, there are plenty of bike trails in the Lapland. In fact, if you ask your hotel receptionist they will likely be able to provide you with a map of the area showing the best trails. If you’re not feeling particularly daring then you can take a a traditional or electric bike tour through the different landscapes in the area. If you choose to bike in the Lapland then you’ll be in good company as biking is not just a pass-time here but rather serves as a means of transportation for the old and young alike.
4. Spend A Day In Tankavaara Gold Village
Although this might sound like a tourist trap, it’s actually a pretty fun way to pass a day. The gold village houses a gold museum showcasing global gold mining history and some of the largest gold nuggets ever discovered. If you’re feeling lucky then you can schedule a gold panning experience within the museum itself where an expert prospector will teach you the secrets of the trade and the best part? You get to keep any gold you find! In addition to the gold museum, the village also houses replicas of old-timey buildings from the various gold rush eras, a lodge, a restaurant and an actual outdoor gold panning area complete with an amphitheater for the annual gold panning competition. What’s not to love right? Make sure visit Tankavaara’s website here to check ticket prices for the museum and to schedule your panning experience ahead of time as experiences can sell out in the high season.
4. Visit The Wild Spirit Park
While we did not have an opportunity to visit the park ourselves, several locals highly recommended it. The park is, in fact, a rehabilitation center for all types of wildlife and is a fantastic and safe way to get up close and personal with the animals. To visit the park, an appointment must be made ahead of time with the park owner who will then accompany you on your tour.
5. Explore The Quaint Cities Of Saariselkä And Ivalo
This is a fun way to get to know the locals and to observe the cultures of these unique cities. We simply parked our car and walked around for a while taking in the city center and the unique blend of modern architecture and rural living. We thoroughly enjoyed exploring the various shops selling local wares and foods like cloudberry jam and canned bear meat (and no didn’t try that…there just wasn’t a available can opener in all of Finland). We didn’t notice much in the way of nightlife but there are several bars in the area and a bowling alley if you’re hard pressed for something to do in the evening. We particularly loved the sense of community that still exists in these cities which was evident one day as we interrupted our exploration of a random grocery store to watch an impromptu gathering of local dog owners to put on a husky competition right in the parking lot of the grocery store!
6. Take A Drive To Lake Inari
With a completely free day on hand and no planned activities, we decided to just hop in the car and head north on the E75 which was one of the best decisions we made on our trip. The drive took us through the city of Ivalo and past the Wild Spirit park. After about 20 minutes we spotted a turn off to a body of water which turned out to be Lake Inari, the largest lake in the area best known by fishing enthusiasts for its delectable white fish. Since we lacked any fishing gear and aren’t particularly skilled at the sport, we decided to just do what we do best: take almost a million pictures. With a surface so placid that the lake simply transformed into an enormous mirror bringing the spectacular sky right underfoot, it was difficult to not spend an entire day just admiring it. Once we managed to pull ourselves away though we were rewarded by miles of lovely views of the lake and eventually ended up in the city of Inari where we found another fantastic thing to explore: the Siida Museum.
7. Check Out The Siida Museum
We understand that, to some, any activity would be better than spending a day visiting a museum on vacation and, while we sympathize, we would still urge everyone to consider adding this stop to the itinerary for the simple reason that the museum is an amazing way learn about the Lapland. The small museum fee allows access to information on the formation of the Lapland with rooms depicting the land in all its seasons, a close look at wildlife in the area and the opportunity to learn about the indigenous Sámi people whose vibrant and resourceful way of life helped shape the Lapland.
In addition to the immersive indoor displays, the museum also has an enormous outdoor exhibit highlighting a full-scale Sámi village complete with traditional living quarters, cooking huts, storage sheds, a communal teepee, a boat house and even models of hunting tools and various animal traps. We can honestly say that spending one afternoon essentially walking in the footsteps of the Sámi people whose fortitude and cleverness helped them survive life in one of the harshest climates in the world was a great way to gain new appreciation for our soft beds, indoor plumbing, and our generally coddled lives!
8. Hit The Sauna!
With many long freezing nights throughout the year in the Lapland, warmth is a sought-after commodity as is evidenced by the many saunas available in even the most rural areas of the Lapland. Be sure to bring swimwear with you on your visit because, although you may be hard pressed to find a heated swimming pool, you won’t want to miss out on a chance to thaw out like the locals. Hitting a sauna might seem a little excessive in the Fall when the weather is about 30-40 °F but try not to judge too much as that is pretty much deep winter temperatures for us less conditioned folk.
Was Our Hunt For The Aurora Borealis Successful?
So, having told you almost everything about our Finnish Lapland fun, we may have neglected to mention whether we ever saw the Aurora. Well…the answer to the question that we know you’ve patiently read a couple thousand words to learn is yes…yes, we did!
In fact, we were fortunate to witness the Aurora Borealis twice, on both our first and last nights in the Lapland. Our hunt was made easier by the Space Weather in Finland website which gave an exceptionally reliable prediction of solar activity in the area and the My Aurora Forecast App which predicted the general estimated time of start of the Aurora. It also helped that we were treated to 2 out of our 4 nights of beautifully clear skies. We were partially concerned that the full moon would make it difficult to see the Lights, however this worry was in vain as the moonlight in no way affected the visibility or intensity of the Aurora.
As we sat in our cabin and looked due north through our glass ceiling at approximately 9pm on our first night we noticed the appearance of an odd, greenish swirling cloud that began to coalesce into a dense, undulating light above us. The initial display lasted only briefly but we were vigilant and were rewarded a few hours later when, closer to midnight, the entire sky was lit up by the most wondrous spectacle as the fall of the ephemeral solar particles treated us to a light show like no other. It is worth mentioning that the Aurora is less colorful to the eye than to the lens of a camera, but this does not in any way diminish its splendor. The solar activity was so intense on that first night that we were able to appreciate a spectrum of vibrant colors from shades of luminous greens to fuchsia and magenta. Our second viewing of the Aurora two nights later was less colorful comprising of glowing green swirls only, but was, nevertheless, just as remarkable to behold. Standing atop that stark mountain beneath an open, starry sky graced by a glowing moon and with the Arctic wind howling and buffeting us while the Aurora Borealis shimmered and danced just over our heads was absolutely one of the most enigmatic, mysterious, and incredible moment of our lives.
