Everything You Need To Know Before You Go To The Faroe Islands
While developing our Scandinavian itinerary, we noticed a small group of islands between Iceland and Norway on the map that we initially thought was Svalbard. Given that Svalbard was a heavily sought-after and much researched destination for us, you might think we would have noticed that the islands we were looking at were not far enough north on the map nor were they shaped anything like Svalbard. Fortunately, despite being or maybe because of being geographically challenged, we had stumbled onto the Faroe Islands. A quick search brought forth pictures of sheer cliffs, crashing waves and mountains shrouded in mist akin to scenes right out of the Lord of the Rings! Add in the fact that James Bond had recently died somewhere on these mysterious islands, and we were hooked!
What are the Faroe Islands? When to visit? And What To Pack?
The Faroe Islands are a group of rugged, volcanic islands with sheer, dramatic cliffs that are home to an array of sea birds including a multitude of adorable Puffins. The coast features restless sapphire-blue water, the occasional black sand beach, and spectacular fjords. Depending on the season, the landscape can change from snow covered mountains to lush green slopes dotted with the ever-present Faroese sheep. Trees are not native to the islands and most of the greenery is the result of a combination of grass and moss. While rain and fog seem to rule here, a clear and sunny day is not unheard of and can provide unobstructed views as far as Iceland! Unexpectedly, the weather in the Faroes is generally mild with temperatures of about 30ºF in the winter and the 60ºF in the summer.
Because of the temperate weather and slightly increased chance of catching a gloriously sunny day, the summer months of June through August are considered the high season for tourist visits. It would be melodramatic to say that the islands get overrun by tourists during these months but be aware that accommodations, tours, and restaurant reservations are limited in general hence we recommend planning ahead by 3-4 months to avoid any major disappointments. Make sure to pack light layers as the temperature can fluctuate frequently particularly when windy. Consider bringing a lightweight waterproof outer layer as well and, of course, waterproof hiking boots are a must. At the risk of sounding boastful, we arrived at the Faroes in early August and, aside from a little mist here and there, had beautiful, clear days where we had no need for our weatherproof gear.
Getting to the Faroe Islands
There are two main ways to get to the Faroe Islands which are by boat or by airplane. Sailing can be a bit of a challenge given that a one-way trip could take up to 19 hours from Iceland or 36 hours (about 1 and a half days) from Denmark. A sailing trip in the North Atlantic might sound romantic to some but given the often-rough seas and our penchant to turn green at even the gentlest ocean swells we thought it best to fly instead.
Flying to the Faroes from the USA at the time of our visit was a 2-day ordeal with multiple layovers which forced us to look for more practical options. After learning that the Faroes are a part of the Kingdom of Denmark, we looked for flights between Copenhagen and Vagar island and were thrilled to find multiple affordable options. Booking a flight, however, did take a little bit of know-how. We found that using popular search engines like google flights and Expedia did not yield any bookable flights which was, in part, because only one airline flew to the Faroes and on a seasonal schedule. Once we figured out that Atlantic Airways was the main carrier serving the Faroe Islands, we were able to book our flights directly on their website here. The flight from Copenhagen was about $350 per person round trip and was 2 hours each way. A much more palatable option, wouldn’t you agree?
Is a rental car necessary?
Yes! Or at least that is how we feel about it. The Faroes do have a good public transport system with regularly scheduled buses running between the various towns and islands for a fairly affordable cost if you really want to avoid driving. However, with 18 islands to explore all connected by road tunnels, bridges and passenger ferries, there was so much to see and do that having a car at our disposal provided a flexibility that was priceless. If you’re worried about driving in the Faroes, don’t be! The roads are well kept, and drivers are polite. We did not encounter any high-stress, multi-lane highways and there was no traffic to speak of. While most of the roads are two-way two-lane blacktops you are likely to encounter some single lane roads with shoulder pull-offs at regular intervals on both sides of the road. These roads can seem a little intimidating at first but are easy to navigate, just be ready to pull to the side and allow oncoming traffic to pass by. This made for slower going on our way to Saksun Village in particular but honestly, the area was so beautiful that we likely would’ve stopped for pictures every few minutes anyway!
There were at least three different rental car companies located at Vagar airport, including common carriers like Hertz, offering a good selection of well-maintained vehicles at reasonable prices. We paid around $300-400 USD for a rental for 4 days. The overall rental experience was unremarkable until it came time to pay the rental deposit. We were shocked to learn that the deposit was $3000 USD for our vehicle (a tiny car mind you) that we absolutely had to pay to to get the keys to the car. The deposit was refundable though and we had no trouble getting this back once we returned the car. Just be sure to have a credit card with a good limit on hand when you go to pick up your vehicle!
Gas was not as expensive as we expected with prices mostly in the 4-5 USD per gallon range, which was fortunate as we planned to spend 90% of everyday driving. Navigating was also easy as we were able to use the Waze and Maps apps on our smartphones without issues. The rental car company we chose offered a mobile hotspot for the car for an additional $100 for the entire duration of the rental and we highly recommend getting this. It was much faster than cellular data roaming. Having reliable Wi-Fi was a godsend, especially since we didn’t plan a firm itinerary and were choosing our points of interest on the go.
Where to Stay?
Lodging is not as difficult to secure as you might expect in the Faroe Islands but choosing where to stay can be a little tricky. Many of the islands offer ample hotels and apartments for rent so securing a place to stay is not an issue if you plan ahead, however deciding which island to stay on can be a true challenge. For instance, staying on Vagar island provides easy access to famous Lake Sørvágsvatn and other wonders but offers less variety in the way of restaurants and night life as compared to Stremoy Island with it’s fine dining and quaint city center. We chose to stay in Torshavn city on Stremoy island which was perhaps not very imaginative given that it is the capital city of the Faroes. But, in our defense, the city boasted charming buildings and outstanding restaurants and was ideally situated so that we could get to many of the other islands via a short 30–40-minute drive.
We stayed at Hotel Djurhuus which we found to be plain but that was also clean and comfortable with a sea view and free parking. Honestly, it’s hard to go wrong in the Faroes when you’re picking a place to stay but the experience can be overshadowed if the setting is not right for you. Take some time to decide what kind of scenery you’d like outside your window and how much you’d be willing to commute for whatever conveniences are important to you before settling on a place. If you find yourself unable to decide then you could always stay on a different island every day that you’re there!
Should you bring cash?
Having cash on hand when you travel through the Faroes is definitely not necessary. We decided to forego the currency exchange counter at the airport and saved both time and money as we avoided paying the conversion fees to change our money to the Faroese Krona. In keeping with most of the other Scandinavian countries, the Faroe Islands mostly accept credit cards as the main form of payment. Even the humblest fish-n-chip stands accepted credit cards and we never actually witnessed cash being used anywhere throughout our stay. We had no trouble using American-issued credit cards everywhere we went as well. Be sure to bring a credit card with no foreign transaction fees and a good credit limit and you’ll be all set!
Where to eat?
Food in the Faroe Islands seems to be generally perceived as very expensive however our experience suggests that this might be somewhat skewed. While researching the Faroes, we came across many Blogs suggesting that we purchase prepared meals from supermarkets and gas stations to save on cost which raised some concern for us. Additionally, we also found that many of the restaurants appeared to be able to accommodate only a few guests per dinner service hence reservations were a must and needed to be made as early as possible. With all of this in mind, we decided to make reservations at two of the more prominently featured restaurants for dinner and to wing-it for our third dinner and all other meals. This turned out to be exceptional planning on our part because not only did we get to try the famous Faroese lamb and salmon at the higher end restaurants but also to eat a little like a local by spontaneously stopping to sample salmon soup, fish-n-chips, pizza, and the one-of-a-kind Faroe Islands hotdogs.
A three-course meal at one of the fine dining establishments costs around $100-150 USD for 2 people, which we found to be on par with any major metropolitan area in the US. On the other hand, the odd combo of a large pizza, fries and a liter of cola cost around $30 USD and a hotdog cost around $3-4 USD. Honestly, we would say that the Faroes has something for everyone regardless of budget when it comes to food. You could also consider getting a rental with a kitchen and making some of your own meals, but keep in mind that groceries can be expensive and that you would be robbing yourself of the opportunity to try Faroese specialties made the Faroese way. Not to mention that you’ll be spending valuable vacation time doing dishes!
Check back later for a complete review of the restaurants and foods we tried in the Faroes!
Fun Things To Do In The Faroes
Take A Scenic Drive
While you could simply hop in your vehicle and start driving and would immediately be presented with incredible views, we recommend that you find an actual paper map of the Faroes to take with you as there’s a little secret hidden in those maps! If you look closely at the map, you’ll spot whimsical yellow buttercup flowers scattered along certain roads. Pay particular attention to these as they are used to identify the most scenic routes throughout the Faroe Islands. These routes are named, you guessed it, the Buttercup Routes and, even though every turn in the Faroes presents gorgeous vistas, the scenery along these roadways is deemed to be some of the most astounding in the islands.
Spend A Day Exploring Torshavn
Literally translating to Thor’s Harbor, Torshavn is the capital city and the largest town of the Faroe Islands. The city is located on Stremoy Island, the largest of the Faroe Islands, and is both quaint and picturesque with its’ multicolored, fanciful buildings and its cobbled streets leading down to the seafront. Spend a day visiting the historic buildings of Reyni, some dating back to the Middle Ages, and the charming red buildings of Tinganes. Check out the Nordic House for a taste of unique architecture and make a stop at the Faroese Museum of History to get a real feel for the Faroes and don’t forget to leave some time for dinner! For more information on Torshavn check out this site.
Visit Saksun Village
Also on Stremoy Island and located about 40-45 minutes away from Torshavn, Saksun Village is an absolute fairytale come to life. The drive to the village, again, is fairly easy but can be slow going given that the hillside road serving the village is only one lane and must be shared by two-way traffic. We’re not complaining though as every pull-off we took brought us epic views of the surrounding green mountains and the lakes nestled within. We were surprised to find a free, paved parking lot at the end of the road just before the entrance to the village. A paved pathway led away from the parking lot and upwards towards the buildings. Cresting the hill, we caught our first breathtaking glimpse of Saksun. Weathered, grass-topped huts scattered amongst lush, green grass with an amplified vibrance brought about by leaden gray skies left us speechless. Add in the surrounding waterfalls, the turquoise lagoon, and the sheer cliffs of the fjord on whose banks the village sits, and we had a dreamscape unlike any other. A place where, if we stood still long enough, we felt it’s history and as though we could still hear the sounds of the Viking flutes carried on the ever-present wind.
If you make the wise decision to add Saksun to your itinerary, then there are a few things to know before you go. Despite being a major tourist attraction, a lot of the land in the village is privately owned. Trespassers are not tolerated so be mindful of where you step to avoid offending the locals. Additionally, if you’d like to walk along the lagoon then you’ll need to check the tide schedule as the area is not accessible during hide tide. There’s also a fee of 10 USD per person to hike the area around the lagoon. Finally, for privacy reasons, no drones are allowed in the area. Other than these small considerations visitors are generally free to explore the public spaces in the village so take as much time and as many pictures as you’d like in this spectacular place.
Bask In The Mist of Fossá Waterfall!
Considered the tallest waterfalls in the Faroes, the Fossá waterfall is situated approximately 45 minutes away from Torshavn and 20 minutes away from Saksun Village and is easily accessible. No hiking is required to get to the falls as it sits right beside the road. As a matter of fact, Fossá flows down dramatic black basalt cliffs, under the road itself and continues down the mountainside. If you’re unable to set your GPS to the waterfall directly then you could set it to the town of Tjørnuvík and the route will take you to the one lane road along which Fossá is located. We simply stopped at an available pullout on the shoulder of the road once we saw the waterfall and made our way on to the rocks and into the spray. There are no fees and few restrictions on visiting Fossá which means you can get as close as you’d like. Just bring a towel and watch out for slippery rocks!
Go On The Vestmanna Sea Cliffs Tour
Vestmanna, a small seaside town on Stremoy Island, is home to the striking Vestmanna Sea Cliffs on which thousands of sea birds including Puffins nest. To best experience the sea cliffs we decided to take the 1.5-hour boat tour departing from the Vestmanna visitor center which was located about 40 minutes away from Torshavn. The tour was $60 USD per person and was a small boat tour aiming to go to the cliffs and back.
As the waters were fairly calm and the weather was only slightly misty, we chose to sit topside rather than in the cabin for the best views. This worked in our favor as we got to see Faroese salmon at play and hunt for whales enroute. The tour was informative and fun as the captain was game to sail into and out of small caves, pause for frequent bird pictures and get us up close and personal with the colorful cliff sides. Oh, and we should mention that the drive to and from Vestmanna was also a visual masterpiece!
Spend A Day or More in Gjogv!
The epitome of charm and quaintness, Gjógv is a little fishing village located along the seaside on Esturoy Island. The village is about an hour away from Torshavn and the drive was one of the most scenic and memorable that we experienced on our tour of the Faroes. Not only did we have to tackle the one lane two-way mountain road with all its hairpin turns and precarious pull offs, we also had to do it without guard rails! As we were fortunate to be making the drive on a clear and sunny day and could think of no better way in which we might get such a panoramic view of the islands we figured the small degree of trepidation we felt was worth it!
We had no idea what to expect on arrival to Gjógv but were thrilled to find ourselves amongst more brightly colored, grass-topped buildings set amidst riotous yellow and orange wildflowers with a meandering stream flowing through the center of the village to join with the deep blue of the Atlantic waters. We spent our time exploring the inclined railway for which Gjógv is known, admiring the families who were brave enough to swim in the freezing stream, and watching the waves churning and crashing below us at the well-placed observation platform. If you’ve got the time, we highly recommend staying a night in Gjógv not only for the surrounding beauty of the landscape but also to basque in the tranquility and total holiday vibe of the village!
Climb Mount Slættaratindur
If you decide to spend the night in Gjógv or are staying elsewhere on Esturoy Island then you could consider adding a little extra adventure to your tour by climbing Mt. Slættaratindur, the highest mountain in the Faroe Islands. The mountain is recognizable by its flat summit and is known for providing captivating views of the entire archipelago. Catch a clear day and, rumor has it, you might even be able to see Iceland from the summit! To get started with planning your hike, check out this website for more information.
Hike Lake Sørvágsvatn
You may not know this lake by name, but we feel sure that you would recognize it on sight especially since it has been widely featured on blogs, vlogs, magazines, tv shows and various other media outlets. Lake Sørvágsvatn, also known as Lake Leitisvatn, is located on Vagar Island and is the largest lake in the Faroe Islands, but this is not its actual claim to fame. What makes this lake a marvel is its position and the optical illusion that this position creates. From just the right angle, Lake Sørvágsvatn appears to sit on the very edge of a cliff high above the Atlantic Ocean while, in fact, the lake is only a few much-less-dramatic feet above it and drains into the ocean via a small waterfall. Even though many flock to the area primarily to capture the illusion in print, we felt that the hike itself to the clifftop was equally stunning and worth the effort. Gazing out across the jewel-blue Atlantic, atop steep cliffs and buffeted by the swirling mist and strong winds, we came to a new appreciation of the fortitude of the Norsemen that dared to sail these waters.
Getting to the trailhead is not too difficult. The drive to the trailhead is about 15 minutes from Vagar airport and 45 minutes from Torshavn. Head to the town of Miðvágur then follow your GPS or signs to Trælanípa. The drive to the trailhead will pass through narrow gravel streets before ending at a small gravel parking lot and a small café. The trailhead can be accessed once you enter the café and pay the hiking fee which is about $30 USD per person (steep we know!). Once you’ve paid, exit the cafe and head through the small gate barring the way to the trail and start your climb.
The trail is essentially a sheep path but wide enough for comfortable walking. It is not marked but is easy to pick out and a trail map is not really necessary. Anticipate about 60 minutes of hiking one way given the constant uphill climb. With no trees to obstruct the view, getting lost would be quite a feat! Bring a waterproof/windproof layer to help with mist and high winds, your trustiest hiking boots, water, some snacks and a good camera and you’ll have everything you need to enjoy this amazing hike.
Get To Know The Puffins!
Popular for the thousands of remarkable Puffins that inhabit it from April to September every year, Mykines Island is both a birdwatcher’s and a nature-lover’s paradise. Despite its remoteness, Mykines is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Faroe Islands. The island is small and settled by only one village that houses a total of 14 permanent residents year-round so peace and quiet is easy to come by.
Traveling to Mykines can be challenging and it’s generally recommended that tourists visit between May and August for the best conditions. The main mode of transport is by ferry that departs from Vagar Island daily during the summer season. The ferry ride takes around 45 mins, and you can buy your tickets here. There is also a separate shuttle boat that is smaller and faster making the trip in 20 mins and you can get tickets for that here. Ferry tickets frequently sell out quickly in the summer so make sure to get your tickets early. Keep in mind that rough seas are not uncommon on this journey so it wouldn’t hurt to have some Dramamine or the likes on hand. Finally, there’s also the option of traveling by helicopter, which takes about 10 minutes, however tourists are limited to one-way trips only, so you’ll have to take a boat for the other leg of your trip. Also, the helicopters only operate 3 days per week and are subsidized by the local government for use by locals on Mykines therefore tourists are generally discouraged from booking these flights. If you do decide to go by helicopter, then you can book your one-way trip directly with Atlantic Airways. Because high winds, rough seas and fog can cause ferry and flight cancellations there is a possibility of getting stuck on Mykines overnight or longer so you should plan to visit Mykines early in your itinerary to avoid missing important events like your flight home!
Once you arrive to Mykines, there’s a hiking fee to be paid of $35-40 USD per person then you’re free to roam and get up close and personal with the puffins and some of the other 30 species of birds on the island, visit the village and hike to the lighthouse. For a more complete list of hikes and things to do on Mykines check out this website. Also note that the lighthouse hike is projected to be unavailable due to landslides in the area through at least summer of 2023 so be sure to check out the above website for updates before you go.
Hike to Kallur Lighthouse and James Bond’s Final Resting Place!
Even before James Bond met his unfortunate demise there, the Kallur Lighthouse was already pretty famous for its precarious and breathtaking location on Kalsoy Island. Befittingly, getting to the lighthouse requires a bit of effort, an average fitness level and nerves of steel if you’re afraid of heights.
To get to Lighthouse, we drove from Torshavn to the ferry station in Klaksvik which was about 45-50 minutes away. We wanted to take our car to Kalsoy Island with us rather than take the public bus on the island, so we made sure to leave time to get in line at the ferry station early as the ferry only took 17 vehicles at a time. Timetables for the ferry can be found here.
We then set our GPS to Trøllanes and conquered the Kalsoy tunnels which we must say were not like any other tunnels in the world. These tunnels were one lane only to be shared by two-way traffic and were tiny and unlit. Driving at 5 mph through one of the tunnels had about as much of an adrenaline kick as driving at 200 mph in a Ferrari since the tunnels were pitch black and had the nerve to feature turns and bends so that, even with headlights on, oncoming traffic might still collide with each other. Our best advice here is to go slow, especially around turns and bends and get some kind of rental car insurance!
Even with slow going in the tunnels we made it to Trøllanes from the ferry station in about an hour via another gorgeous seaside road. There was a gravel parking lot and actual restrooms which we took advantage of before setting off on the hike. There were signs pointing out the trailhead and no fee for the hike so, after passing through a livestock gate, we started our uphill climb following what was mostly a narrow sheep path rather than an actual trail.
We knew the hike would be around 40 minutes each way and were stoked to get to the top and get our James Bond tombstone picture but sadly this wasn’t to be as the weather had different plans for us. With the extremely high winds, blowing misty rain and boggy terrain we made it about halfway up the first hill before we started sliding around too much for comfort. We ultimately decided to preserve life and limb and forego the climb in favor of exploring Trøllanes itself.
As we were exploring, the wind improved enough so that we were tempted to fly our drone. We managed to launch successfully and were poised to take what would’ve been some phenomenal photos when a seabird decided to dive-bomb the drone. We then spent the next five minutes performing avoidance maneuvers we didn’t even know we could do. By the time we rescued the drone, it was time to head back to the ferry so that we wouldn’t further flirt with tragedy and miss our last boat. This might all sound like an epically bad day, but you should know that there aren’t any bad days in the Faroe as far as we’re concerned. Sure, we didn’t do what we set out to, but we had a memorable and hilarious day nevertheless plus we were able to explore yet another unspoiled and extraordinary island in the Faroes. We also can’t complain as all our subsequent days on the Faroes were incongruously sunny and spectacular. If you’ve got some time on hand before or after your Kallur hike, consider checking out the town of Mikladalur and the pay a visit to the enchanting Seal Woman.
