Ecuador and The Galápagos: The Ultimate Guide to an EPIC Adventure!
Perhaps one of the most underrated destinations in South America, Ecuador is a treasure throve of thrills, calling especially to those dauntless spirits daring enough to unearth its secrets. Frequently portrayed as a nation of economic woes and instability that is less than ideal for tourists, Ecuador is, in fact, a country with a keen sense of community and with customs and traditions that are willingly shared with visitors. Although Ecuador is best known for the Galápagos Islands, an archipelago teeming with an abundance of unique wildlife, there is much more to this vibrant nation. From the well-preserved historic cities and pristine beaches to the snow-capped peaks of the Andes and the dense jungles of the Amazon, Ecuador is an endless adventure that no self-respecting thrill-seeker dare miss!
Getting to Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands
Quito
Most visitors to Ecuador arrive by plane to Mariscal Sucre Quito International Airport (UIO) which is located approximately 35 minutes away from the heart of Quito. Travelers from many of the major cities of the USA have access to nonstop, daily flights to Quito airport making Ecuador a surprisingly accessible destination for many Americans. Additionally, visas are not required for US Citizens, further smoothing travel between both countries. The Mariscal Sucre airport is modern and easy to navigate thanks to signage posted in multiple languages, English included, throughout. Custom and border processes are straightforward however an electronic customs declaration form must be completed before arriving at the border patrol desk. QR codes to access the declaration form are placed at regular intervals in the arrivals area and can be filled out while queuing up to get your passport stamped.
The Galápagos Islands
Travel to the Galápagos Islands is exponentially more complicated for visitors than the straightforward process of flying into Quito however —and we can personally attest to this— it is well worth it! Although located only a short 2.5 hr flight away from Quito, the Galápagos Islands are a protected region in Ecuador and, as such, require specific paperwork and clearances that must be completed prior to arrival.
To fly to the Galápagos Islands, follow these steps to ensure that you can successfully board your plane to the Galápagos Islands and start your adventure! First, plan to arrive to the airport at least 2-3 hours prior to your flight time and proceed to the Governing Council of the Galápagos Islands (CREG) counter located just inside the domestic terminal at Mariscal Sucre Airport to obtain a Transit Control Card (TCT). Because the TCT card application is a detailed process involving the verification of virtually every detail of your trip to the Galápagos, expect to spend a long time queuing up to get the card. The cost of the TCT card is 20 USD, which must be paid in cash at the airport.
To save A LOT of time at the airport, TCT cards can be filled out online HERE. Make sure to print the QR code for each traveler and bring this to the airport. At the airport, do not join the main line. Look to the far right of the queue area for a sign indicating the line for TCT cards that were filled online and head there. Expect a quick perusal of your passport and the printed TCT card with QR code by a government official after which you can proceed directly to the next step on your journey to the Galápagos Islands.
Secondly, once you successfully obtain your TCT card, proceed to the SICGAL booth located near to the CGREG counter to have your luggage specially scanned and inspected. Make sure to look for the QR code posted at the booth that must be used to fill out the online Customs Declaration form before moving to the scanners. Once your luggage is scanned and cleared, you are free to proceed through regular airport security if you only have carry-on bags or go to your airline’s counter to drop off checked bags.
Make sure to complete your SICGAL bag scan before going to your airline’s counter otherwise you will be sent back to complete this before being able to drop your bags or obtain a boarding pass in some cases.
Thirdly, the only way to travel to the Galápagos Islands is by flying either from Quito or Guayaquil. All flights to the Galápagos Islands from Quito require a stop in Guayaquil for refueling and passengers do not disembark or change planes during the refueling stop. All flights from Guayaquil to the Galápagos Islands are nonstop. There are only two airlines that fly from either Quito or Guayaquil to the Galápagos, and these are Latam and Avianca both of which offer mostly early morning flights to the Galápagos Islands. The two main airports in the Galápagos Islands are Seymour Galápagos Ecological Airport (GPS) located on Baltra Island which serves Santa Cruz and other surrounding islands and San Cristobal Airport (SCY) located right in the heart of San Cristobal Island.
The fee to enter the Galápagos Islands is 200 USD per person and must be paid in cash on arrival to either the Seymour or San Cristobal airports.
Finally, while not a major international airport, Isabela Island, the third of the larger Galápagos Islands, also has a small airport known as the Jose de Villamil Airport located just 10 minutes away from the city center and which is generally used for inter-island flights only. Unlike the Baltra or San Cristobal airports, there is not regular staffing or amenities such as food and lounges at the Isabela Airport and, like us, you may be surprised to find yourself at a completely empty airport if you arrive too early for your flight. Not to worry though, there is seating and functional restrooms and, even though it might not seem like it while you’re sitting there in absolute silence, someone will eventually come to open the check-in counter when it is time for your flight!
Be prepared for delays on all flights to the Galápagos from mainland Ecuador as weather conditions can lead to inability to land on the islands. With surprising frequency, airplanes are made to turn back and return to Guayaquil if they attempt and fail to land on the islands.
How to get from Seymour Airport to Santa Cruz Island
Despite being the only airport serving Santa Cruz Island, Seymour Galápagos Ecological Airport (SCY) is actually not on Santa Cruz Island. In fact, the airport is located on Baltra Island — a small, rocky, mostly uninhabited island save for the airport of course! – located just a short boat ride away from Santa Cruz Island. As traveling between Seymour Airport and Santa Cruz Island involves taking a bus, a boat and another bus, we thought it would be helpful to provide a little how-to guide on traveling from the airport to Puerto Ayora (the main city) on Santa Cruz Island.
There are two main ways to travel between Santa Cruz and Baltra Island for those flying into Seymour Airport and these are by arranging private airport pick-up or by public transportation. There are no taxis available on Baltra Island, so public transportation refers primarily to taking an airport bus. For private pick-up, simply clear customs, pay your park entrance fee in cash and proceed to the exit. To take the bus, exit the airport and walk to the right and you can’t miss the line of waiting buses. You will need a ticket before you board and the ticket counter is located just past the outdoor café. Bus tickets are currently 10 USD per person. With tickets in hand, proceed to the nearest bus, show the ticket and an attendant will take your luggage and direct you to a bus to board.
The trip from the airport to the ferry terminal is ~10-15 minutes across rocky terrain. On arrival at the ferry station, you’ll depart the bus and line up to wait for a water taxi without your luggage which will be loaded onto the water ferry by the bus conductor. The cost of the water taxi is 1 USD which must be paid in cash onboard the boat. The boat ride between Baltra and Santa Cruz is a mere 10 minutes after which you’ll find yourself and your luggage reunited at the Santa Cruz ferry terminal.
After departing the water taxi, there are two options for getting to Puerto Ayora: pick-up truck taxi or public bus. There are a lot of pick-up truck taxis located right at the marina, and you can negotiate a price for transfer to the city. Taxi prices are typically 40-60 USD per person for a 30–40-minute ride into Puerto Ayora. If you don’t mind public transport, taking the local bus is a fantastic way to get to Puerto Ayora for just 5-8 USD in about the same amount of time.
There is only one road leading to Puerto Ayora from the ferry station so travel time is about the same whether you take a taxi or a local bus. Keep in mind though that the buses drop off a mile outside of Puerto Ayora and you’ll need to take a taxi to your lodging. This short ride from the bus stop to anywhere in the city is usually no more than 2-3 USD.
When to visit Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands
Both mainland Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands have two distinct seasons: a wet season and a dry season and that is where most of the similarities in climate between the two locations end. As the Galápagos Islands and Ecuador are vastly different when it comes to location, it follows that they would also have distinctly separate climates as well and this is indeed the case. Where the Amazon Rainforest and the Volcanoes of the Andes Mountains heavily influence the weather on mainland Ecuador, Pacific currents and winds are the main factors affecting the climate in the Galápagos Islands.
Quito
Frequently referred to as the “city of eternal spring” Quito does in fact have very stable temperatures, ranging from 60-65 °F year-round. That being said, the weather in Quito is perhaps some of the ficklest that we’ve experienced to date thanks to the abrupt rainfall that is a hallmark of the region. Although Quito has both a wet and dry season, the dry season is quite short, lasting only 3 months and extending from June to September. The other 9 months of the year see rainfall practically every day, however the rain is often drizzling or so short-lived that no one pays any mind to it at all. We visited Quito in November and experienced rainfall every day that we spent there. We suggest packing waterproof outer layers and shoes or bringing a poncho/umbrella with you for those long days of exploring around the city if you don’t particularly relish being soaked through in cool weather for hours on end.
Galápagos Islands
In contrast to Quito’s temperate and wet climate, the Galápagos Islands are much warmer and drier. As with Quito, temperatures in the islands are steady throughout the year but are overall warmer, ranging from balmy 70 °F to 80 °F daily. The Galápagos Islands also see two main seasons annually: the wet and dry seasons. The wet season extends from January to May while the dry season extends from June to December. As you might expect, the dry season is the most popular time to visit the Galápagos with December and January seeing more sunny days and the highest number of travelers arriving to the islands. We arrived at the Galápagos Islands in November — a bit of a shoulder season— and were met with mild, generally sunny days and only a light cloudburst or two during our stay.
Where to stay in Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands
Quito
Located at 9350 feet in elevation in a valley ringed by volcanoes, Quito is a stunning metropolis that shares the honor of being the first-ever UNESCO World Heritage Site with the Galápagos Islands. Spread out in the basin abutting the Pichincha Volcano, Quito’s footprint is large and while there are many neighborhoods that are accommodating tourists, it is important to be circumspect when choosing where to stay in the city as this is crucial for both fun and safety. Most visitors to Quito stay within the colorful historic district — us included! — where all manner of food and fun is easy to come by. While there were many hotels to choose from in the historic district, we ultimately decided on a beautifully restored apartment situated within a 5- minute walk of the historic district. Our two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment was beautifully arranged, featured a well-landscaped inner courtyard and a 24/7 guard on site. We found the neighborhood to be quite charming with its narrow, cobblestone streets, mom-and-pop shops and quaint restaurants.
Galápagos Islands
Figuring out where to stay in the Galápagos Islands is simpler than in Quito as there are only three populated islands to choose from: Santa Cruz Island, Isabela Island and San Cristobal Island. These islands each have one major city where locals and all tourists — those who are not on a cruise that is — typically reside. In Santa Cruz Island, the main city is Puerto Ayora which is quite developed and located waterfront. Similarly, Puerto Villamil in Isabela Island and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno in San Cristobal are also located along the water and serve as the main residential and commercial centers of the respective islands. There are no major chain hotels in the Galápagos however there are smaller hotels as well as many well-appointed and affordable hostels available on each island that can be easily booked through Airbnb.
Tourists to the Galápagos can reside there for no more than 6 months at a time.
For our stay in the Galápagos Islands, we chose to book all of our accommodations through Airbnb. As a popular tourist destination with fewer choices when it comes to lodging, you might expect rooms to be generally expensive, however we found the prices of the hostels and apartments to be surprisingly affordable. For example, a two-night stay in Puerto Villamil on Isabela Island cost us just 165 USD for a large, private room with en-suite and air-conditioning plus access to a full kitchen, laundry and lounge areas. While we’re sure that it’s hard to go wrong with any accommodation that you choose on the islands, we found the following Airbnbs to be ideally located and beautifully appointed with amazing staff and excellent customer service. In Puerto Ayora we recommend staying at Casa Ocean Pier for proximity to restaurants, shopping and the marina and for their rooftop terrace where you can enjoy a complimentary breakfast with breathtaking views. Hostel Jeniffer in Puerto Villamil on Isabela Island is another gem that is absolutely worth a stay. While not oceanfront, the rooms at Hostel Jeniffer are incredibly spacious and comfortable and the peaceful inner courtyard with hammocks is the perfect evening vibe after a long day of adventure. Finally, Plaza Lobos in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal Island is unmatched when it comes to location, cleanliness and comfort. Not only is this Hostel located across from a sea lion studded beach, it’s within walking distance of almost every restaurant, tour company and the marina!
Getting around Quito and the Galápagos Islands
Quito
First, let’s start by saying that driving in Quito, or any major city in Ecuador requires fine navigational skills and perhaps a pair of eyes in the back of your head to help keep watch for reckless drivers! Although the roads in and around Quito are well-maintained, the traffic, frequent rain and the narrow streets make for slightly more harrowing experience than usual. Toss in the occasional oddly shaped intersection, a daring pedestrian here and there and a random animal or two just standing by to startle the bejesus out of you and you’re sure to find yourself quickly looking up taxi rates!
Ecuadorians drive on the right-hand side of the road and an international driver’s license is required for all foreigners driving in Ecuador.
Prefer to have a less chaotic time commuting in Quito? Then you are in luck as Quito has a substantial transportation system that includes a metro, public buses, taxis and rideshares like Uber. Although the public options such as the local buses and the metro system are the cheapest way to travel around the city, they do have some drawbacks. For instance, the train system covers only a very small portion of the city and runs along a specific route hence visitors are unable to access popular points of interest making it a less-than-ideal way to get around for tourists. The local buses, on the other hand, have extensive routes and bus fares are cheap in Quito, however, if you plan to use the buses then make sure to familiarize yourself with the many different lines, routes and stops before getting onboard!
Local buses can be crowded depending on the time of day in Quito and pickpockets have been known to take advantage of this so be mindful of your valuables when riding the buses.
If after reading all this neither driving nor the use of public transportation sounds right for you, then you can consider hiring a private car and driver— which is more affordable than you might think! — or using local taxis or Uber. Taxis are available everywhere in Quito and you can hail one through your hotel concierge or by simply waving one down in the street. As multiple taxi apps have failed in recent years in Quito, we will not recommend any specific apps here at this time however it is worthwhile to enquire about this on arrival to Ecuador as having an app to book rides is both a cost and time saver. Because there are both official and unofficial taxis in Quito, you will want to properly verify the taxi before you get on board both for cost and safety reasons. We strongly suggest only traveling by official taxis and these are easily identifiable as they are yellow and carry an official placard with their license on display. Always negotiate prices before taking off and make sure to bring lots of small bills to pay as taxis only accept cash and drivers rarely can make change for big bills.
Many taxi drivers in Quito do not speak English therefore, if you do not have an app to book a taxi and don’t speak Spanish, consider having your hotel arrange your rides and negotiate prices for you to avoid misunderstandings. Also note that taxis are really cheap and a 20–30-minute ride usually costs no more than 10-20 USD.
Finally, for the most stress-free and flexible yet affordable rides in Quito, we suggest using Uber. As good as taxis are in city, we found ourselves exclusively relying on Uber rides for the simple fact that we could book rides from anywhere ourselves and prices were set ahead of time thereby negating the need for complex discussions. Since our Spanish proficiency is rudimentary at best, this worked extremely well for us. And in case you’re wondering, Uber is very safe and reliable to use in Quito. All Uber drivers are verified, and riders receive a pin that they must provide to the driver to initiate a ride thereby adding yet another layer of protection.
Galápagos Islands
Being significantly smaller and much less densely populated when compared to Quito, the Galápagos Island are, fittingly, super easy to get around. As there are no rental car agencies on the islands, visitors and locals alike travel most commonly on foot or by bicycle. Well-stocked Bicycle rental shops are easy to find on all the populated islands and rentals are surprisingly cheap. For example, we paid just 30 USD to rent 2 E-bikes for 4 hours on Isabela Island! Just in case you’re tempted to scoff at us renting E-bikes over traditional bikes, allow us to point out that all the Galápagos Islands are incredibly hilly with challenging terrain, so unless you’ve got thighs of steel, we strongly suggest following in our footsteps or risk hours pushing your bike uphill!
Bike shops in the Galápagos have more inventory than customers so you do not need to reserve your bike ahead of time unless you want to.
Now, although most things on Santa Cruz, Isabela and San Cristobal Islands can be reached by bikes, there are some areas that are too far away to do so. For these occasions there are “Pick-up Truck” taxis available for hire on every island. These taxis — as the name suggests – are all pickup trucks, are white and all carry an official placard or seal on the driver’s door identifying them as legal taxis. Hailing a taxi is done by waving down a cab on the street or by asking your host/concierge to call one for you. As taxis are plentiful on every island, there is not a need to reserve one in advance unless you are planning to hire a taxi for the entire day. Most rides around town in each of the major cities of the Galápagos Islands are affordable, costing on average about 2-10 USD and fares must be paid in cash.
Most taxi drivers in the Galápagos only speak Spanish so make sure to brush up on your Spanish before you arrive or bring a good translator with you!
Galápagos Islands Inter- Island Travel
Taking the Inter-Island Ferry
Knowing how to get around while you are in the cities on the Galápagos Islands is one thing but what about traveling from one island to the next? The main ways of traveling between islands in the Galápagos is via cruising, ferry or flying. Galápagos cruises are quite common and are a popular way of island-hopping while in the National Park. Depending on the length of the cruise, prices can be steep however the cruises are all-inclusive and often include excursions to the most popular tourist sites as well as some of the uninhabited islands in the park.
If you’d prefer to directly travel from one island to the next, then taking a local ferry is a good option. There are daily ferries connecting Santa Cruz, Isabela and San Cristobal Islands. Traveling from Santa Cruz to either San Cristobal or Isabela Island takes 2 hours by high-speed boat. As they are further apart in distance, traveling between Isabela Island and San Cristobal Island is a much longer journey which is approximately 8-hours long and require a stop-over in Santa Cruz Island. There are only two inter-island ferries departing for each island daily, one in the morning and one in the afternoon, and tickets must be purchased in advance as they sell out quickly, especially during the high season.
The inter-island ferries are small, carrying only around 18-20 people per trip and advanced tickets must be bought through a broker or tour operator as there are no ticketing booths at the terminal. We recommend using Galápagos Seaways for your ferry tickets as they deliver electronic tickets with all the necessary information to you by email.
Once you secure a ticket, make sure to read it thoroughly as it will contain important information such as when to arrive at the marina and, most importantly, what speedboat you’ll be on. On arrival to the ferry terminal, look for the free-standing podiums bearing the names of the speed boats. After finding the podium whose name matches your ferry ticket, present your ticket which will then be exchanged for a lanyard bearing the name of the boat. Make sure to wear the lanyard so that it is visible to all officials on the marina. Having secured the lanyard, you will finally move to the security line where you’ll likely spend 30-40 minutes, or longer, waiting to have your bags scanned. This is primarily done to prevent the transfer of fruits and vegetables between islands. When you’re finally through security, you’ll be directed to a loading area where you’ll board a water taxi (most often a small wooden boat) which will then sail you and your luggage to the proper speedboat to make the crossing. Wanting to explore as many travel options as possible in the Galápagos, we took a ferry from Santa Cruz to Isabela Island and attest to it being one of the bumpiest, and most gut-clenching 2-hr boat rides of our lives — and that was on sunny and calm day! All this to say: pre-treating motion sickness before boarding the ferry is a must!
Water taxis cost 1 USD per person and must be paid in cash once on board the taxi. Note that Isabela Island also has an additional “City/Pier Tax” of 10 USD that must be paid on arrival to the island.
Taking An Inter-Island Flight
For those wishing to forego cruising or ferries for the more luxurious and timesaving choice of flying between islands, small plane flights can be booked through two airlines: ESAV Airlines and Emetebe Airlines both of which are affordable and reliable. Having barely survived one ferry ride, the prospect of an 8-hr ride from Isabela to San Cristobal was about as appealing as decade-old toe fungus. Fortunately, we had booked a small plane trip with Emetebe departing from Isabela airport and it was one of our favorite experiences in the Galápagos! Never had we entered an airport to find ourselves the only people there with no employee or another traveler in sight!
The check-in counter for our flight opened surprisingly on time and check-in consisted of having our passports checked and our bags weighed. The entire security process following check-in consisted of a gentleman asking us if there was any produce in our possession then hustling us out onto the plane. The plane ride itself was smooth and, as one of us got to sit in the co-pilot’s seat, very scenic! Honestly, our flight was so effortless and stress-free that, looking back, we couldn’t help but wonder what possessed us to take the ferry in the first place!
Emetebe and ESAV airlines both offer very affordable airport pickups and drop-offs so consider bundling these services if you take an inter-island flight. We did this and were thrilled that someone met us at the airplane’s door, walked us through security and dropped us to our Airbnb in San Cristobal.
Official Currency of Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands
The official currency of Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands is the US Dollar. All major credit cards are accepted in Ecuador however the preferred payment method remains cash throughout both mainland Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands. In researching our trip to the Galápagos, we noted that many travel sites recommended bringing lots of cash to the islands as credit cards would not be accepted and as ATMs may even run out of cash. Well, this may have been the situation some time ago, but this is no longer the case. In fact, we were pleased to see that ATMs were widely available and that credit cards were accepted by almost all restaurants, grocers and souvenir shops in the Galápagos Islands.
Be sure to bring enough cash – especially small bills – to tip and to pay for things like taxis, water taxis and the irresistible off-the-beaten-path restaurants both in Quito and the Galápagos Islands!
Official language of Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands
The official language of Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands is Spanish. In the larger cities of Ecuador like Quito and Guayaquil, English is often spoken as well. Smaller cities and places like the Galápagos Islands National Park tend to have a mix of both Spanish and English speakers however English is much less commonly spoken in these areas. Honestly speaking, there were a few times on the islands where we had to reach deep for words we didn’t even know we knew in Spanish or risk missing crucial information! If you don’t speak Spanish, don’t worry! Simply get a good translation app like Google Translate and download Spanish before arrival. Locals are patient and very friendly and will work with you as you use your translator to communicate.
Staying connected in Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands
As you’re perhaps tired of seeing us mention by now: We have T-Mobile and — once again— our connectivity was great in most places that we visited in Ecuador. There were a few places such as Cotopaxi National Park and a few random spots in Quito where our service was a little spotty, but we were rarely ever completely disconnected. Our connectivity was also surprisingly good in the Galápagos Islands where we had been forewarned to expect no service and only weak Wi-Fi. Thankfully, we were able to stay online no matter where we were in the Galápagos Islands with T-Mobile which was tremendously important to us as we were exploring many of the islands on our own and needed reliable map and GPS service.
Is it safe to travel to Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands?
Quito
Generally speaking, traveling to cities such as Quito and Guayaquil or traveling to the Amazon is safe to do for tourists in Ecuador. Petty crimes such as purse-snatching and pickpocketing are common, however more violent crimes are less so especially with regards to tourists. As with all travel, exercising caution and being aware of your surroundings is tantamount to avoiding sketchy areas and situations that may place you in harm’s way. Make sure to check any travel advisories on your home country’s tourism website before taking off as this will also help you plan your trip and keep you safe. If you’re nervous about travel to Ecuador, consider hiring a reputable tour company to provide a guide and driver so that you can explore safely and freely! For our time in Quito, we felt safe on our own walking around the historic district but did not venture too far away from that busy tourist area on our own. Instead, we decided to tour with Overland Adventures for visits to outlying areas like the subtropical rainforest and the rose farms both for safety and convenience and had a fantastic time in Quito.
The Galápagos Islands
In contrast to mainland Ecuador where caution is a necessary part of exploration, the Galápagos Islands National Park is a haven for anyone living or visiting this slice of paradise. Petty and violent crimes are nonexistent on the islands and visitors are free to roam anywhere they please at leisure. Locals are also quite friendly and obliging on the islands, making the experience all the more pleasant for tourists. Thanks to their stellar safety record, the Galápagos Islands are also a fantastic destination for solo travelers as well. We can’t begin to express how much we loved the freedom of being able to hike or bike wherever we pleased in the islands no matter the time of day or night!
Can you drink tap water in Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands?
If you don’t relish a brush with traveler’s diarrhea or some unsavory parasites then do not drink the tap water anywhere in Ecuador or the Galápagos. Bottled water is cheap and easy to come by anywhere on mainland Ecuador and should be used to brush your teeth as well as for washing any fresh fruits and vegetables you plan to consume raw. Bottled water is not as readily available in the Galápagos Islands however all hotels and Airbnbs provide free filtered water. You need only bring a refillable water bottle with you and you’re good to go in the Galápagos.
Food in Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands
The food scene in Ecuador is vibrant and eclectic, highlighting a cuisine that is a mix of regional specialties from both Ecuador and other nearby nations like Peru and Colombia. Flavor-packed empanadas, fall-off-the-bone roast chicken, delicate ceviche and savory stews are just a handful of the mouthwatering dishes that you absolutely must try whether you’re in Quito or the Galápagos Islands.
Want to know exactly what dishes are a must-try in Ecuador? Check us out HERE!
Food is shockingly affordable in both Quito and the Galápagos Islands. Being a bonafide metropolis, Quito, of course, has much to offer when it comes to food. Craving salchipapas? Don’t worry! A 10-minute walk anywhere in the city will likely bring you to a cart or street vendor selling just that! Prefer a 10-course seasonal tasting menu instead? Well, there’s probably a fine dining joint just around the corner from you! When it comes to food, Quito has you covered no matter what you are looking for!
Uber Eats works well for ordering food delivery in Quito. We found the service to be fast and reliable and used it several times in the city, especially on days when we didn’t want to brave the constant drizzle.
In the Galápagos Islands, the food scene is, as you might expect, smaller but features many of the same dishes as in Quito. Surprisingly, food is much cheaper in the Galápagos as compared to Quito and this is all thanks to the famous “Menu del dia.” What is that you ask? Well, the Menu del Dia or Daily Menu refers to a prefixed 3-course meal offered by every restaurant in the Galápagos. The Menu del Dia often features a soup or salad, an appetizer, an entrée and a drink, all for just 5-10 USD. And not to worry, if you don’t like your choices when it comes to the menu del dia, restaurants also offer an “a la carte” menu that is sure to have what you are looking for.
When ordering a menu del dia in the Galápagos that features fish, be sure to ask what type of fish is included. Tuna is abundant in the Galápagos and is almost always the main fish served in the menu del dia. If you don’t ask ahead, you might find yourself eating tuna for every meal!
Top things to do in Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands
Fun things to do in Quito
Explore Quito’s Historic Center
Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its beautifully preserved colonial buildings, Quito’s Historic Center is a must-see for tourists visiting the city. Narrow cobbled streets surrounded by colorful buildings and the spires of countless cathedrals lend a gothic flare to the bustling neighborhood. While simply walking the streets of the Historic Center is dazzling there are some points of interest that are not to be missed! We suggest beginning your tour at the Plaza de la Independencia from which you can enjoy views of El Panecillo atop which sits the impressive, winged Virgin of Quito statue. From the Plaza, make your way to the Basilica de Voto Nacional where a climb to the steeple provides gorgeous, panoramic views of the city. As you continue to meander through the Historic Center, keep an eye out for the Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco where an enormous collection of colonial art is preserved and on display for all to enjoy. There are tons of shops and restaurants to explore as well in the Historic Center, and we definitely recommend ending your visit on a sweet note at one of the plaza’s many chocolate cafes!
Take a tour to Cotopaxi
Located in Cotopaxi National Park approximately 1-1.5 hrs away from Quito, Cotopaxi volcano is an iconic and coveted destination in Ecuador standing at over 19347 feet at its summit. While it is not the tallest mountain in Ecuador, its status as one of the highest active volcanoes in the world along with its symmetrical, snowcapped cone and colorful mineral deposits makes it one of the most magnificent sights in the country. To visit Cotopaxi National Park, simply drive to the entrance of the park, provide your passport and sign the waiver and you’re good to go. There is no fee to enter the park and there is only one well-maintained road into the park and to Cotopaxi itself making navigation very easy. As Cotopaxi is a very high elevation mountain with its own weather system, you may or may not see the mountain however there are other amazing sites in the park that are worth a visit such as the placid Laguna de Limpiopungo.
The Laguna is located across the road from Cotopaxi and takes about an hour to walk around. The scenery is spectacular with high mountains rising both in front of and behind the lake. When visible, Cotopaxi can be seen mirrored on the surface of the lake creating gorgeous photo opportunities. For those looking for more adventure, consider visiting the Jose Rivas Refuge, a high-altitude hut on Cotopaxi which serves as a base for anyone wanting to summit the mountain. The Jose Rivas Refuge is located at ~15000 ft and requires a sturdy, 4-wheel drive vehicle to access it. Although it is the base camp for climbers who want to summit Cotopaxi and you may be tempted to try, we caution you to avoid attempting this as it is not an activity for day hikers visiting the park without proper training or acclimatization. Instead, consider doing one of the shorter hikes around the refuge that offers stunning views of the crater and nearby glaciers.
Consider taking a tour to Cotopaxi as it will include all the important stops as well as a guided hike of the Jose Rivas Refuge Area. If you choose to visit the park and the refuge on your own and intend to hike, make sure to bring supplies for altitude sickness should it occur.
Visit a Rose Plantation
With an epithet like “The City of Eternal Spring” it should come as no surprise that Quito is a prized city for rose-growers. Thanks to its unusually stable and temperate climate, Quito produces and exports roses that are larger and more vibrant than other competitors globally. As such, multiple rose farms can be found on the outskirts of the city and are definitely worth a visit, especially if you’re a lover of flowers. We visited Rose Success, a relatively small but substantial rose farm within a 15-minute drive of Cotopaxi where we were toured through the greenhouses and invited to view the processing and packaging of the roses for sale and export. Although the tour itself was short, we found it enlightening and particularly enjoyed being able to take home some of the roses with us as well as sampling some of the rose chocolates and liqueurs.
All the rose plantations are working farms and reservations are required to visit. Visitors can call ahead and arrange a time to see the farm or come as a part of a tour. Walk-ins are not typically accommodated.
Take the Teleferico de Quito
Located on the Pinchincha Volcano, the Teleferico is one of the highest cable cars in the world. A quick 10-minute ride takes visitors on a scenic ride to the summit where stunning views of Quito can be seen. Visitors can choose to just ride the car up then back down or hike around the top for even more breathtaking views of the inhabited crater below and the city beyond that.
The views from the Teleferico is not great if the weather is too rainy or cloudy so consider not visiting during such times. Keep in mind that on very clear days, lines for the Teleferico can be extremely long with waits of more than 2 hours!
Visit the Cloud Forest and see the hummingbirds
There are several excellent cloud forests towns in Ecuador like Mindo and Mashpi, both of which are incredible and deserving of a visit however both are located ~3 hours away from Quito. If you’re on a tight schedule and can’t make a trip to either of these locations, then we recommend paying a visit to the Tandayapa Valley situated just 1 hour away from Quito where you can begin to discover the wonders of the cloud forest. But what is a cloud forest? A cloud forest is a tropical rainforest in high altitude with high humidity that is often covered in clouds and mist. Sounds magical? Well it is! In addition to an enormous variety of plants, these dense forests are home to rushing rivers and waterfalls and to a massive variety of birds and small animals as well. While you’re sure to be awestruck by all you’ll see here, don’t forget to pay a visit to the Alambi Reserve where you can wrap up your cloud forest visit by feeding the hummingbirds by hand!
Stand on the Equator at Mitad del Mundo
Mitad del Mundo, which translates to “The Equator” is a monument contained within a small village built on what was originally thought to be the equator in Ecuador in the 1700s. Although modern technology has shown that the true equator is in fact 250 meters away, the original monument remains and continues to be a major tourist attraction in Quito. In addition to the enormous monument, Mitad del Mundo includes several museums, souvenir shops and even restaurants. The grounds are meticulously maintained and the setting within the lush, green mountains is breathtaking. Whether you are looking to enjoy one of the many cultural dances often performed in the main amphitheater theater, peruse the museums, sample chocolate or spend an hour trying to balance an egg on a nail, the time you spend in Mitad del Mundo will be unforgettable!
Fun things to do in the Galápagos Islands
Santa Cruz Island
Visit the Charles Darwin Research Station
Located in Puerto Ayora, the Charles Darwin Research station is exactly what you might expect: a research center for studying and preserving local wildlife in the Galápagos Islands. The research station is easy to walk to from most places in Puerto Ayora and can be visited without a tour if you’re interested in just viewing the common areas and museums. For anyone interested in walking through the protected turtle habitat, a tour guide is mandatory and must be hired before arrival to the research station. To hire a guide, keep an eye out for a tent located to the left of the sign for the Charles Darwin Research Station where you’ll see a list of tours and services displayed including one to the research station. These guides are certified by the Charles Darwin Foundation and are the only people allowed to lead tours through the restricted areas of the station. The cost of the tour is 10 USD per person. Once you enter the station, prepare to be awed by the marine iguanas sunning themselves and the huge, saddle-back turtles slowly chewing their way through the day!
Walk along the Malecon
The Malecon in Puerto Ayora refers to the waterfront boardwalk along which many of the businesses and restaurants are located. The hopping boardwalk is especially interesting thanks to the many sea lions, pelicans and other wildlife that are usually lounging there!
Snorkel at Las Grietas
One of the top things to do in Santa Cruz, Las Grietas refers to three ocean pools located between tall cliffs where snorkeling is a must. Visiting Las Grietas requires taking a water taxi from the Puerto Ayora ferry terminal to Finch Bay Hotel followed by a 20-minute hike through lava fields to the overlook. Hiking to and viewing Las Grietas is free however snorkeling in the waters of the volcanic fissure requires a guide and costs 10 USD per person. Guides can be arranged in Puerto Ayora or on-site at Las Grietas. Make sure to bring your snorkeling gear and a wet suit if you’d like to take full advantage of the crystal-clear waters of Las Grietas.
Visit Las Grietas at noon when the sun is high in the sky for the best visibility for snorkeling.
Hike to Tortuga Bay
Perhaps the most famous beach area on Santa Cruz Island, Tortuga Bay is comprised of two beaches: Playa Brava and Playa Mansa. Getting to Tortuga Bay involves a 45-minute hike from Puerto Ayora. The trail is paved and well-maintained but narrow hence cycling is not an option. To get to Tortuga Bay, you can use Google or Apple Maps to direct you to the trailhead which is located 10-15 minutes away from the ferry terminal in Puerto Ayora. There is a small parking lot with bike racks at the beginning of the hill leading to the visitor center. Make the climb to the visitor center and enter your name in the guest book before heading towards the back of the building where you’ll find the cobblestone trail leading to Tortuga Bay.
Lined by ancient cacti, the hike is incredibly scenic, and all manner of lizards and birds can be seen. After ~30 minutes on the hilly trail, you will arrive to Playa Brava: a wide expanse of sand so pristine that you can see yourself reflected in it! Playa Brava is famous for its strong currents and crashing waves and is for surfers rather than swimmers. For those wanting to take a dip after the long hike, take a right after entering Playa Brava and continue along the sands until you see the sign for Playa Mansa. As Playa Brava is littered with sizable marine iguanas, make sure to stay at least 2 feet away from them as you take pictures and make your way to Playa Mansa. Playa Mansa itself is shallow and very calm and is a great place to relax after a hike. After cooling off, take a short stroll through the nearby cactus field for more incredible views before making your way back to Puerto Ayora.
There are no facilities at either of the beaches at Tortuga Bay so be sure to bring your snorkeling gear, lots of water and anything else you may want. We should point out that although touted as a great place to snorkel, the waters at Playa Mansa are murky so visibility and therefore snorkeling is not as good here.
Visit Los Gemelos
Nestled in the misty highlands of Santa Cruz Island, Los Gemelos are two tree-filled volcanic craters that are known for exceptional birdwatching. Los Gemelos are located approximately 24 miles away from Puerto Ayora, sitting directly between the city and Baltra Airport. There are several ways to visit the craters including taking a tour, hiring a taxi or biking. Both tour companies and taxi services offer full and half-day tours to the highlands that include Los Gemelos for about 90-100 USD. If you decide to bike to the craters, there are excellent bike lanes between Puerto Ayora and the highlands, however the ride is quite hilly, and you may find having an e-bike to be just the thing to make the ride more manageable.
See the turtles at El Chato Ranch
Located nearby to Los Gemelos in the Santa Cruz highlands, El Chato Ecological Reserve is a family-owned ranch where the giant, domed turtles of the Galápagos can be seen. The reserve offers multiple tours daily that includes a short hike amongst the free-roaming turtles followed by a walk through to the lava tunnels located there as well. Getting to El Chato can also be done by taxi, taking a tour or biking and can be combined with a tour to Los Gemelos and the Lava Tunnels mentioned below. The tours in El Chato are 10 USD per person and, after the guided portion of the tour is completed, there is free time to explore the ranch on your own. El Chato also features a restaurant, a souvenir shop and a few enormous turtle shells for fun picture-taking.
Visit the Lava Tubes
Although there are lava tunnels on El Chato ranch that are included in the tour, these tunnels are small and less impressive when compared to the grander lava tubes located just down the road from the ranch. A short 10-minute ride away from El Chato in the Santa Cruz highlands, the Lava Tubes are an elaborate cave system consisting of both large and small caves and tunnels. Some tunnels are quite large, cavernous and well-lit and allow for upright exploration while others might require more flexibility to visit. The entrance fee to the lava tube is 10 USD per person.
Isabela Island
Go snorkeling at Los Tuneles
Los Tuneles or The Tunnels is a stunning volcanic landscape that features volcanic arches and underwater caves filled with marine life. Los Tuneles can be reached by sailing from either Isabela Island or Santa Cruz Island. We took a tour from Isabela Island to Los Tuneles which required about two hours of sailing. Before reaching Los Tuneles, we stopped just outside the volcanic complex to snorkel. We were pleased to see sharks, turtles, stingrays and even seahorses however, admittedly, the water was extremely murky and not entirely pleasant for snorkeling. The clarity of the water improved dramatically as we made our way into Los Tuneles and our excitement grew at what we might be able to see snorkeling this pristine area. Imagine our dismay when on arrival we were told that while we could walk across the arches and look into the water, we were not allowed to snorkel there! Anyway, disappointing as that was, we loved being able to get close to the many blue footed boobies roaming the lava rock and watching the turtles swim from cave to cave!
Boats can only enter a short distance into Los Tuneles hence come prepared with shoes for a short hike on the lava rocks. Keep in mind that a visit to Los Luneles is more about seeing the landscape and birdlife as snorkeling is prohibited there.
Snorkel at Concha de Perla
Located next to the ferry terminal on Isabela Island, Concha de Perla is a lagoon that anyone can snorkel for free at any time on Isabela Island. Just wait for the tide to come in, bring your own snorkeling gear and have at it! The lagoon is a fantastic place to interact with sea lions and fur seals.
Hike the Sierra Negra Volcano
One of five active volcanoes on Isabela Island, Sierra Negra is the only volcano that tourists can safely hike on the island. The trailhead is located approximately 13 miles away from Puerto Villamil in the foggy and oft rainy highlands. Because of the nature of the volcano and the risk to both tourists and the environment, the Galápagos National Park rules require that all visitors to the volcano book a naturalist guide or join a tour in order to hike the volcano. This means that individuals are not allowed to visit on their own. We booked our Sierra Negra Tour through Galápagos Blue Sky which included a morning hike on the volcano and snacks!
Leaving Puerto Villamil at 7am, we were transported via an open-air bus to the misty trailhead about 30 minutes away from the town. Starting up the trail was initially a little challenging due to the incline as well as the muddy nature of the trail however we departed the steady drizzle and rain just a mile away from the trailhead to find ourselves in the glaring sunshine. Overall, the trail was easy to moderate and required no special footwear, gear or skills.
Approximately 45 minutes away from the trailhead, we arrived to the first overlook with views that inspired the mountain’s name. Laid out before us was the jarringly black, rocky landscape of the collapsed caldera of the Sierra Negra volcano set against the lush greenery of its steep slopes. Low clouds rolling across the black rocks and green hillsides completed the enchanting vision adding yet another layer of splendor to the scene before us. Although we would’ve been more than satisfied to end here, there was much more to see and we continued our hike, eventually climbing down amongst the lava rocks. Here, we walked for some 30-40 minutes taking in the reds, blues and yellows of the rocky landscape before us before once again cresting a hill from which we could enjoy panoramic views of Isabela and the distant pacific lapping at her shores.
The Sierra Negra hike is ~9-10 miles round trip so bring comfortable shoes and lots of water!
Kayak to the Penguins
Amongst the rarest of Penguins in the world, the Galápagos Penguins are the only species in the world that live north of the equator. The penguins reside primarily on Isabela and Fernandina Islands in the Galápagos Islands National Park. To see these rare birds, we joined a kayaking tour departing from the Isabela Island Marina. We kayaked the bay at the entrance to the marina visiting volcanic outcrops of Isabela Island known to be habitats for the penguins. Unfortunately for us, the Penguins had already mostly migrated to Elizabeth Bay and there was not a bird in sight! Hilariously, our guide, in her attempt to console us, added salt to the wound by letting us know that she had seen one Penguin on the same tour just that morning! Anyway, the tour wasn’t for naught though as we were able to see lots of stingrays, puffer fish, sea lions and sharks!
Bike to the Wall of tears in Los Humedales Park
One of the most popular things to do on Isabela Island, visiting Los Humedales Park — the Isabela Island wetlands – is a unique opportunity to see pink flamingoes, fur seals, sea lions, marine iguanas and giant tortoises all in one place! The park is located just outside of Puerto Villamil and can be reached by hiking or biking. We chose to bike and set off from Puerto Villamil on a 5-mile ride that took us first onto the sand along Puerto Villamil beach then into the park on a nicely paved trail. The park is not open to vehicular traffic, exponentially increasing its appeal for bikers. With Muro de las Lagrimas (Wall of Tears) as our terminal destination in the park, we rode directly to the wall where we found a rather unimposing lava rock wall in a somewhat overgrown area. While not terribly impressive, the wall itself holds great significance as it serves as a monument in remembrance of the prisoners who were forced to build it under harsh conditions. The ride to the wall from Puerto Villamil was about 30 minutes.
Making our way back through the park to the entrance was much more interesting as we made several incredible stops along the way. First, we visited El Estero where a short walk brought us to a mangrove tunnel that opened out to a hidden cove where sea lions frolicked in the green waters of an estuary. Continuing, we made a quick stop at Playa del Amor where we watched marine iguanas lounging between the lava rocks before walking back out to explore the Tunel del Estero; a small cave featuring water so clear that it was virtually impossible to see. Finally, we wrapped up our visit to Los Humedales Park with a stop at Poza de las Diablas to see the famous pink Flamingos!
Consider renting bikes with fat tires for the ride to Los Humedales to make biking on the sand easier.
San Cristobal Island
Take a Taxi Tour of San Cristobal’s Highlands
As the most popular thing to do on land on San Cristobal Island, there are several tours as well as taxi tours daily that take visitors to the highlands of San Cristobal Island. The tours are usually half day or full day, cost anywhere from 60 to 80 USD and include stops at El Junco Lake, the Galapaguera Breeding Center and Puerto Chino beach. As we needed flexibility, we chose to see the highlands via taxi tour. On arrival to our Airbnb, we relayed our wishes — haltingly and in appalling Spanish we’re sure — to our hostess who called a taxi and arranged the tour for us. We then negotiated a fair price to for our abbreviated tour – 60 USD for 3 hours — with the taxi driver directly which was to be paid in cash at the end of the tour.
Taking the winding road out of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, we climbed from sunny shores to the rainy fog of the highlands. Bypassing El Junco Lake, we headed first for the Galapaguera Breeding Center to see the giant tortoises of San Cristobal. Our driver deposited us at the gate to the sanctuary and returned to his car to wait. Opening the gate, we made our way to the guard station where we signed in, showed our passports and confirmed that we didn’t have a naturalist guide before we were shown where to go. There was no fee to enter and once a path was pointed out, we set off to walk the paved trail in search of turtles. Compared to other breeding and conservation centers we had visited thus far in the Galápagos, we found Galapaguera to be overall smaller but still well-maintained. The sanctuary was also more rugged, and spotting turtles was harder as they were often hidden by foliage or off in the too-far-to-see distance. Despite all this though, the sanctuary was still rather remarkable, doing amazing restoration work and was completely worth a visit.
From the turtle sanctuary we continued on to Puerto Chino Beach where a 20 -minute hike brought us to a sea-lion filled beach with unusual green sand. Watching the sea lions playfully go about their business was our favorite part of this tour. After a too-short-time with the sea lions we headed back to El Junco Lake where we made the wet, misty, foggy 20-minute climb to the lake. Although we couldn’t see much during the climb, we could still appreciate the dense forest around us and the colorful plants lining the wooden steps leading up to the lake. At the top, we still were not able to see much and debated whether the climb down to the lake from the peak would be worth it. A short discussion later found one of us very carefully traversing the muddy path down to El Junco only to find even denser fog and less than 5 feet of visibility! Well, even though we can’t really say that we saw the lake, what we did see of the few inches of water at its shore was magical!
Take the 360-degree snorkel tour around San Cristobal Island
The 360-degree Snorkeling Tour is the most popular tour offered in San Cristobal and can be booked with any agency in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. We booked our tour with Galápagos Blue Sky and was placed with a local company known as Galápagos Xcursion who specialized in this particular tour. The tour included a full day of sailing, snorkeling and hiking around San Cristobal Island. We selected to have a “superior boat” which meant that we were assigned to a larger boat with better stability and a bathroom on board. We highly recommend Galápagos Xcursion as not only was their boat meticulously clean, but the staff was also attentive at all times, always putting our safety and comfort first!
Make sure to pre-treat to prevent motion sickness as the 360-degree tours all include lots of sailing on rough pacific waters.
We departed for the tour from the Marina at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno and sailed for two hours to our first stop: Kicker Rock. Located out in the deep, pacific waters, Kicker Rock is a great snorkeling spot for those wanting to spot sea lions, coral, coral fish and hammerhead sharks. Donning our wetsuits and jumping into the freezing, wavy pacific waters, we made our way between and around the rocks marveling at the variety of marine life around us. While we did not see hammerhead sharks —this is probably a good thing! — snorkeling at Kicker Rock was both the scariest and most thrilling thing we’ve ever done!
Returning to the boat, we sailed by Sardinia Bay, another potentially great snorkeling spot, however the waves were too strong to allow for such activity, so we continued onwards aiming for Rosa Blanca Beach. Enroute to the beach, we found ourselves surrounded by a pod of what seemed like more than a hundred dolphins!
Arriving at Rosa Blanca Beach, we once again donned our wetsuits and began a short hike with our snorkeling gear to the first of two snorkeling areas. Along the way, we crossed lava tunnels and rocky landscapes scattered with cacti and blue footed boobies who watched our progress with curiosity. The 10-minute hike ended at a large natural pool fed by pacific waters. At first glance, the murky lake-like area seemed too small to see much however on jumping into the water we were shocked to find everything from shivers of sleeping sharks to roaming giant sea turtles to clusters of spotted eagle rays! We explored there for perhaps 40 minutes before making our way to the final stop: a cove just a few steps away. Shallow with crystal clear waters, the cove was teeming with fish, sea lions and sea turtles! Here in the shallow waters of the bay on Rosa Blanca beach we were at last at ease having finally found our perfect snorkeling spot in the Galápagos Islands!
