From Castles to Christmas Markets: Everything You Won't Want to Miss in the Czech Republic!
Prague | Kutna Hora | Dresden
Known as Bohemia in bygone days, the Czech Republic, or Czechia, has long been a draw for lovers of elevated architecture, colorful history, and vibrant culture. Located at the heart of Europe, this small country showcases rambling countryside, charming towns, and stunning cities, creating a picturesque destination that is truly irresistible!
The largest and most recognized of Czechia’s cities is Prague, aka Praha, which serves as the capital and main commercial center of the country. Perhaps even more famous than the Czech Republic itself, Prague is a name that many associate with grandeur and rightfully so as it is often referred to as one of the most beautiful cities in the world! While a phenomenal place to visit no matter the time of year, Prague is singularly magnificent during the holiday season when, like a scene out of a Disney movie, it comes to life with hundreds of Christmas trees, thousands of twinkling lights and bustling, festive Christmas Markets as far as the eye can see. Whether you’re simply looking to wander the charming, cobbled streets or to chase that riotous holiday cheer, Czechia has got you covered! Keep reading to see how to make your visit to the Czech Republic one you’ll never forget!
Getting to the Czech Republic
Most international flights arrive at Prague’s Vaclav Havel Airport (PRG) which is located 20 minutes away from Prague city center. There are daily nonstop flights to Prague from several US cities including New York and Chicago but, sadly, not from our home city of Atlanta. To get to Prague, we flew with Lufthansa first to Frankfurt Airport then onwards to Prague. Our experience flying with Lufthansa was fantastic and our flight went quite smoothly, until we arrived at Frankfurt Airport (FRA) that is.
Having never flown through Frankfurt, it was news to us that we would have to clear custom and border control processes before being able to board our connecting flight onward to Prague. Given our short 1-hour layover, this was a nearly impossible task as the border control lines were long and slow moving. Thankfully, we were met at our gate by airport staff who whisked us to border control where they pleaded with officers to allow us to the front of the line then escorted us all the way to the awaiting aircraft. We were duly impressed but later came to learn that this type of service was out of the norm and that while had gotten lucky that day, many other travelers had not. After the hassles of Frankfurt, arriving in Prague was easy and straightforward. Having already cleared customs in Germany, we simply followed the signs directly to baggage claim and the exits where we would have been able to leave if our bags had arrived…but that’s a story for another day!
When making ANY connection through Frankfurt Airport (FRA) make sure to leave at least 2 hours to clear border control or risk missing your flight entirely.
Where to stay in Prague
While not as large as say Paris or Hong Kong, Prague is nevertheless a widespread and densely populated city that houses more than a million people within its limits. Choosing a good location to stay in, therefore, is of utmost importance for first-time visitors to the city both for comfort and convenience. The more popular areas to stay in Prague include Old Town (Stare Mesto) famous for its markets, restaurants and the Astronomical Clock and Lesser Town (Mala Strana), which is located closer to Prague Castle and the Vltava River. Both Old Town and Lesser Town are incredibly picturesque with lovely, cobblestone streets and ornate buildings. These neighborhoods are also safe, tourist friendly and very walkable, allowing ease of access to many points of interest in the city center. For our part, we chose an Airbnb situated right next to Wenceslas Square which we came to view as the perfect place to be. Not only were we close to the Christmas Markets, shops, and restaurants in the square, but we were also a short 10-min walk of Old Town and its historic marvels as well. If you’re visiting in the winter and dread lots of exposure in frigid weather or simply want to be right in the center of action, we think you’ll love staying near hopping Wenceslas Square.
Getting Around Prague and the Czech Republic
Getting around Prague and the Czech Republic is shockingly easy courtesy of its robust public transport system. The widespread availability of buses and trams together with the extensive metro system guarantees that you will not have trouble getting to any destination you desire in the city. But how does one get tickets for public transport in Prague? Not to worry! Tickets can be purchased in-terminal at bus, train and tram stations but, if you don’t fancy footing it around Prague to find one of these hubs then there are other ways to buy tickets. For buses and trams in the city, travelers can pay for transit via contactless payments hubs once boarding using either phones or credit cards. Trains in Prague do not have payment centers onboard, however there are conductors who pass around and collect payment via credit card for anyone that boarded without a ticket. To save time and lots of trouble, consider downloading the PID Litacka App, Prague’s main public transportation app. The app allows travelers to check routes, purchase tickets for buses, trains and trams and even reserve train seats!
Many trains in the Czech Republic have seats that can be reserved however tickets are often sold without any attached seat reservation. If you purchase an open-ended ticket and don’t have a seat reservation, then be aware that you will likely need to hunt for a seat or stand for your entire journey. Keep in mind that you are free to take any open seat anywhere on the train but may need to vacate that seat if another traveler has reserved it and later comes to claim it.
Other ways to get around the Czech Republic and Prague is by driving and using Ride-share Apps. While driving through the countryside is relatively easy thanks to well-maintained roads and skilled drivers, we recommend that you avoid driving in Prague. Why? Well, does traversing narrow, steep streets, trying to read modified Latin road signs, spending too much time looking for the ever-elusive parking spot and dodging an insane amount of pedestrian traffic sound like a relaxing time to you!?
Driving is done on the right-hand side of the street in the Czech Republic, and all foreigners must have an international driver’s permit. Learn more about International Driving Permits in our article about Driving in Italy!
Since we’re positive that we’ve successfully talked you out of any desire to drive in Prague, we’ll take this time to tell you that Ride Shares are truly the most convenient and surprisingly affordable way to travel through the city. Uber and Bolt both work exceptionally well no matter where you are in Prague. For smaller cities in the Czech Republic, such as Kutna Hora, we suggest using Bolt as rides are easier to find on this platform than on Uber.
Taxis are readily available in smaller Czech towns and are a good alternative if rides cannot be secured on Bolt. Note that taxis only accept cash in smaller towns.
When to visit the Czech Republic
Well, we’re sure the Czech Republic — and Prague in particular — are fantastic no matter when you decide to visit but as the cheerful Christmas Markets are one of the main draws, we’d have to agree that you simply must visit Prague for Christmas. Sure, the weather is frigid but hundreds of twinkling Christmas trees, Christmas carols floating on the air and festive vendors hawking everything from handmade ornaments to perfectly roasted chestnuts are sure to warm you right up! And yes, we absolutely spent our Christmas in Prague this year and while we sadly saw not a flake of snow, the glittering, sunny days that graced our trip were unforgettable!
Layers and a good, long puffer jacket are a must if you want to enjoy exploring outdoors in the cold Prague winters. If you don’t have one don’t worry! Prague is one of the best and most affordable cities for shopping in Europe. Just pop into the nearest Primark or Marks and Spencer you’re all set!
Language and Currency of the Czech Republic
The official language of the Czech Republic is — surprise! — Czech. If you don’t speak Czech, don’t worry! Most locals in Prague speak at least some English so you’ll be able to communicate without too much hassle. We strongly suggest downloading Czech on your favorite translation app before you arrive though as you may find need for this is smaller towns throughout the country.
The official currency of the Czech Republic is the Czech Koruna (CZK) and is also known as the Czech Crown. As international credit cards are widely accepted throughout the country, you do not need to have a lot of CZKs on hand, however we do recommend exchanging some currency on arrival as you’ll find need for cash in many local markets and when using taxis.
Euros are not widely accepted in the Czech Republic. American Express is also currently not widely accepted but Visa and Mastercard are!
Food and Water in the Czech Republic
While we can’t speak to all the regional cuisines of the Czech Republic — mostly because we exclusively dined in Prague— we had some pretty unique food in Prague that’s absolutely worth a try! Before we delve into that though, we should point out that in addition to the many restaurants scattered throughout the city, there are also unconventional ways to dine in Prague, particularly during the Christmas season. We’re speaking, of course, of the many Christmas Markets chocked full of food stalls that are a must-visit if you happen to be in the Czech Republic during the holiday festivities. What exactly should you look for?
Well, we suggest keeping an eye out for the popular Chimney Cakes baked over charcoal, the spit-roasted pork shoulder, the ubiquitous chargrilled sausages and the warm, mulled wines and ciders! We should also mention that tap water is safe to consume in the Czech Republic although you may find yourself questioning this when almost every restaurant you visit insists on serving you bottled water!
Now, while we agree that the Christmas Markets are a fun place to grab a bite, you may find yourself wishing for a cozier dining experience once the cold starts to seep in. In that case, we’ve got a smorgasbord of restaurants to choose from that we think are fabulous both for food and ambience when in Prague.
My People
A local tavern located a mere 5-minute walk away from the astronomical clock tower, My People features an eclectic mix of Eastern European cuisines and beers. Everything from juicy Burgers to savory Goulash is on offer, making it a fabulous spot for a quick yet satisfying meal. We particularly enjoyed the Big Plate featuring a BBQ combo of wings and sausages, the Big People Pizza with Balkan Cheese and, of course, the fork-tender Beef Goulash!
Municipal Beer House
Located in the basement of the historic Prague Municipal Building, the Municipal Beer House is a one-of-kind dining hall in Prague featuring beautifully carved wood trimming, tiled and patterned walls, lace linen and jaunty live music. Even better than the charming décor is the mouthwatering Czech cuisine that is an absolute must-try when in Prague. Now, although it looked positively heavenly, we did not dry the whole roasted duck, but we loved the Zander with mashed potatoes, the enormous pork tomahawk and the Svickova na smetane — a very traditional Czech dish featuring tender roasted beef sirloin in a silky gravy paired with dumplings that we could swear were just steamed bread!
420
Sitting just across the square from the Astronomical Clock Tower in Prague’s Old Town, 420 offers edgy, Michelin-inspired fine-dining in a gorgeous, airy setting. As with many such restaurants where creativity takes precedence, the dishes we tried at 420 pushed the envelope, taking us out of our comfort zones! While every dish at 420 is a culinary adventure, we must recommend the Grilled Oyster mushroom with pickled kohlrabi and curd gnocchi and the pulled beef shoulder with albufera and chokeberries, both of which were simply to-die-for!
BRICK'S
Honestly speaking, we were drawn to BRICK’S more for its location along the banks of the Vltava River and its views of Charles Bridge than its menu but were pleasantly surprised at just how great our meal was! Of particular note was the piquant Casarecce with prawns and burrata, the tender veal hanger and the succulent beef tenderloin linguine.
Top things to do in Prague and the Czech Republic
Shop the Christmas Markets
Popping up everywhere in the Czech Republic over the holiday, these Christmas Markets come in all shapes and sizes and offer wares — and food — that fit perfectly with the festive season. Local venders gather, each with their own stall and particular brand of goods and compete good-naturedly for business. In Prague, Christmas Markets are numerous, and each offer a different vibe and selection of goods. These markets open a few weeks before Christmas and close up shop just days after the holiday is over. The markets also tend to have fixed hours of operation which means that you must be strategic when it comes to shopping them.
The largest of the Christmas Markets in Prague is located in Wenceslas Square and features lots of food vendors, giant decked-out Christmas trees and even a skating rink. Because they are numerous and sought-after, Prague makes finding its Christmas Markets easy by publishing locations and hours of operations online. Simply click HERE for details and off you go on your Christmas adventure!
Go to mass at any of the awe-inspiring churches in Prague!
Whether you love gothic architecture and medieval art or are just looking for a place to reflect, then a stop in any of the hundreds of magnificent churches in Prague may be just what you’re looking for. Ornate and grand, virtually every church in the city will leave you in awe although we do admit that some are more splendid than others. In particular, we recommend a visit to the Church of Our Lady before Tyn located in Prague’s Old Town where visitors are welcome to pray, tour the art or even attend a classical concert!
If you visit Prague during Christmas, consider booking a Christmas concert in any of the churches in the city. Christmas music played on a grand organ accompanied by violins and cellos in a warm, cozy cathedral is a truly unforgettable experience. Concert tickets can be purchased HERE.
Visit Prague Old Town
One of the most popular spots to be in Prague is Old Town, a medieval center known for its many historic landmarks. Located within a 10-minute walk of Wenceslas Square, Old Town’s famous Cobblestone streets lead visitors to several must-see attractions like the Our Lady before Tyn Church and the famous Astronomical Clock. The square is also known for its charming restaurants and cafes and an even more fabulous Christmas Market than that of Wenceslas Square.
Climb to the top of the Astronomical Clock
Hard to miss in the center of Old Town Square, the Prague Astronomical Clock is a medieval marvel that draws tourists by the thousands. The striking, 600-year-old clock depicts not only the time of day but also the position of the sun and the moon in the sky and loads of other fun astronomical details. Visitors can take pictures right beneath the clock however those interested in learning more about it can purchase a tour inside the Prague Old Town Hall which is directly connected to the clock tower. Ticket holders get access to the museum inside as well as the clock tower itself and can climb to its top for an astounding bird’s eye view of Old Town.
The Old Town Hall in Prague to which the Astronomical Clock is connected sits atop an ancient, labyrinthine set of tunnels that can be visited via tours by anyone looking to peek into the eerier side of Prague. Make sure to book a timed tour Here if you want to see a whole different side of Prague.
Climb the Powder Gate Tower
Built initially for gunpowder storage in 1475, the Prague Powder Gate Tower later came to be the starting point of the Royal Route to Prague Castle and remains so to this day. The Gothic tower is located right next to the Prague Municipal House and is open to visitors wishing to climb to the top. Tickets to enter the tower can be purchased at the small ticket booth located between the tower and the municipal house or inside the tower itself. Once a ticket is secured, visitors can enter the tower by the small doorway located across from the ticket booth and begin ascending the time-worn, narrow, spiral concrete staircase to the top where spectacular views of Prague await.
Take a cruise on the Vltava River
One of the most relaxing things to do in Prague, a cruise on the Vltava River is a phenomenal way to escape the crowds while still enjoying breathtaking views of the city. Although the Vltava River is the longest in the Czech Republic, cruises in Prague traverse only a small section of the river traveling mainly to the Charles Bridge and back again. As you might imagine, there are dozens of tour companies offering cruises on the river, however not all are created equally so make sure to do your due diligence before making your booking. Tours do sell out and must be booked in advance. We chose Parniky Praha as our cruise company and were pleased to find that the small boat offered two dining rooms, a covered and an open deck and great food and service.
Consider taking a 12 or 1pm cruise on the Vltava River for lovely, sunlit views of the city in the winter. As the sun begins setting around 3:30-4pm, later cruises provide great views too however the city is cast in shadows making it difficult to capture clear pictures of the skyline.
Walk across Charles Bridge
Built in the 1300s, the Charles Bridge, which spans the Vltava River, served as the main connection between Prague Castle and Old Town. The remarkable stone-arch bridge adorned with imposing statues of various pious figures throughout history and expansive biblical scenes is a part of the historic Royal Route, one that facilitated the passage of many Bohemian Kings. The Charles Bridge is open to pedestrians only and is often packed shoulder-to-shoulder with visitors keen on catching picturesque views of the river and city while making their way to Prague Castle.
Visit Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral
Located across the Charles Bridge and perched atop a scenic hill, Prague Castle is hard to miss with its many pointed spires and towers. Built in the 9th century, Prague Castle has served as the seat of power for Bohemian Kings and continues to hold its position of power as the official residence of the president of the Czech Republic. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the largest castle complex in the world, Prague Castle Complex features the Old Royal Palace, the Golden Lane lined by 16th century houses and extensive gardens. Several lovely cathedrals also grace the palace complex, the most notable of which is St. Vitus, the magnificent cathedral where Bohemian Kings of the past were crowned. As would befit such a place, St. Vitus was grand and awe-inspiring and —to us— was the most spectacular of Prague’s treasures!
Visit the Sedlec Ossuary at Kutna Hora
Albeit a little eerie and macabre, the Sedlec Ossuary, also known as the Bone Church, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that draws tourists from all over the world. Located approximately one hour away from Prague in the charming town of Kutna Hora, the ossuary sits beneath a small chapel that was built in the 15th century and features pyramids, coat of arms and even chandeliers made of human bones!
There are several ways to visit the ossuary including taking a tour from Prague, hiring a private driver or simply taking the train. As we wanted a more flexible schedule while in Kutna Hora, we decided to take the train from Prague to Kutna Hora Station. Forty-five minutes later, we disembarked in a somewhat industrial area from which we followed the sidewalk into town. The 15-minute walk was easy and straightforward, and we found ourselves at St. Barbara’s Church in no time. On entering the church, we were told that we needed to purchase tickets for both St. Barbara’s and the Sedlec Ossuary in a wooden building located across the street.
As it was the only wooden building on said street, the ticket office really wasn’t hard to find, and we purchased a timed-entry ticket to the ossuary and St. Barbara’s Church. Being a UNESCO World Heritage Site as well, we didn’t want to miss the charms of the church and retraced our steps to the cathedral where we found a rather sparsely appointed church in a state of mild disrepair. Despite its state though, St. Barbara’s Church was nevertheless impressive, featuring vaulted ceilings and a splendid spiritual artwork.
After a visit to St. Barbara’s, we crossed the street yet again, walked past the ticket office and arrived, 2-minutes later, to Sedlec Ossuary. We made our way through the graveyard then followed signs to the ossuary entrance where we presented our tickets then took the wooden stairs into the small basement coming face-to-face finally with the bones of at least 40000 human beings. Fully prepared to be shocked or put off by what we saw, we were surprised to find ourselves more intrigued than anything else. Honestly, the Sedlec Ossuary was so airy and ornate that we found ourselves more fascinated than repulsed by its human adornments. That being said, we collectively sighed in relief 30 minutes later when we emerged from that most unusual basement.
Having had our fill of peculiarities, we left Sedlec and ventured into Kutna Hora’s historic center where we visited the oldest church in Kutna Hora — the Church of St James — then a nearby viewpoint from which we marveled at the majestic spires of the gothic Medieval Treasury of the Bohemian Kings.
Take a day trip to Dresden and the Bastei Bridge
Now, we know that Dresden is in Germany and not the Czech Republic, but we simply couldn’t resist a visit once we heard that the Christmas Markets were too fabulous to miss. To get there, we booked a tour from Prague departing at the ungodly hour of 7 am. Before you laugh at us, keep in mind that it’s still dark in Prague at 7 am during the winter! With the Bastei Bridge located in Saxon Switzerland— a rather confusingly named national park located in Germany that has no relation to the country of Switzerland! — as our first stop, we traveled for approximately two hours, crossing from sunny Prague to Germany where the weather abruptly changed to magical frozen mist and snow dusted trees. To get to the Bastei Bridge, we walked a very short distance from the parking lot to an overlook where we took in panoramic but misty views of the Elbe River as it wound its way through quaint towns.
Leaving the viewpoint, another short walk brought us to the remarkable Bastei Bridge built atop towering rock formations in the National Park. Traversing the bridge, we were captivated by the scenery: the lazily flowing Elbe River to our right and the colorful Elbe Sandstone Mountains to our left. Many, many, many photos later, we departed Saxon Switzerland National Park and began the 40-minute trip to Dresden.
Once recognized as the most beautiful city in Europe, Dresden suffered greatly during World War II when the city was heavily bombed, leading to extensive damage. Since then though the city has been rebuilt with a focus on preserving what could be retained of the original architecture. Arriving in the city, this was immediately evident to us as we took in the ancient towers and churches sharing bordered by concrete and glass buildings. We began our tour of Dresden in one of the oldest Christmas Markets in Germany. Sadly, the market had closed for the season as we were two days past Christmas, however, we were not too crestfallen as there were several more markets just steps away. Before throwing ourselves into shopping though, we set out to see historic Dresden where we visited the grand Zwinger Palace, the opera house, the Cathedral St. Trinitatis and many more historical landmarks than even we can name. We particularly enjoyed the Furstenzug though, a long porcelain mosaic depicting Saxon rulers throughout history that spanned an entire street in the historic center! A walk along the mosaic brought us to another huge market where we happily ended our tour browsing to our hearts’ content.
